Mount Denali is the highest peak in North America. Its ascent is a true challenge, especially via the Upper West Rib route. Join an experienced AMGA certified mountain guide and make it to the top in 20 days!
Alaska Range
20 Days
May - Jul
Very high
Advanced
Rising to 6190 meters, Mount Denali is the highest summit in North America. It is located in Alaska and its ascent is a major endeavour. This is your chance to climb Denali via the Upper West Rib Route.
The most popular route for the ascent of Denali is West Buttress. The second one in popularity is the one proposed here, the Upper West Rib. It is much more difficult technically, so only for extremely experienced mountaineers! The first part of the expedition uses the West Buttress Route, until reaching 14K Camp.
During this ascent we climb through the steep south face of Denali, from the 4328m of 14K Camp, in Denali Genet Basin, until the summit ridge. The route to the summit is exposed, it is 35° to 45° steep and the terrain combines snow and ice.
The expedition is structured to maximize the chances of success. The itinerary is flexible and there is no pre-determined end date (although you can find a detailed model itinerary below). In this way, we will adapt better to the conditions in the mountain.
A key factor to succeed in this climbing trip is to achieve proper acclimatization. The program is designed to have a good and slow acclimatization, but it is also very important to be in excellent physical shape for your body to acclimatize properly.
To join this trip you need to be in top physical shape and have glacier climbing experience. You need to have previously successfully completed a multi-day mountaineering seminar, including a successful summit climb. If you have doubts about your experience, let’s talk about it! And if you are looking for a seminar of this kind, have a look at this 8-day Mount Rainier preparation course for Denali.
If you are up for a true challenge and want to reach the top of North America, book this trip and let’s start the adventure of a lifetime!
Meeting at Anchorage International Airport. Transfer to Talkeetna (included), leaving at 4:30PM. Possibility to buy fresh food to complete your lunches on the mountain. Overnight at Latitude 62.
Altitude: 106m
We get ready to fly to the mountain. We will attend a National Park Service presentation. We check the equipment and give final recommendations. Overnight at Latitude 62.
Altitude: 106m
We meet at K2 Aviation and take the bush plane to Kahiltna Base Camp. The views during the flight are outstanding. We review some mountaineering skills at base camp.
Altitude: 2225m
We leave the Base Camp and descend to the Kahiltna glacier. We head then towards Denali travelling up the glacial rolls. We set camp at the base of Ski Hill.
Altitude: 2377m
We ascend towards Kahiltna pass, climbing up the glacier. We set camp just below the Pass.
Altitude: 2926m
We continue up and towards the east, on a glacial valley, setting camp at the pase of Motorcycle Hill.
Altitude: 3414m
Today we rest, review technical skills and prepare for the days ahead.
Altitude: 3414m
We climb Motorcycle Hill up to a point with outstanding views. Then we climb up Squirrel Hill to the Polo Field. It is a wide glacial bench at the foot of West Buttress. We go up to 4115 meters. We leave food, fuel and personal items in our cache site and return to 11K Camp.
Max altitude: 4115m
Altitude: 3414m
We ascend to 14K Camp, climbing around Windy Corner, passing our cache site. We reach out camp in Genet Basin.
Altitude: 4328m
We go down to our cache site to retrieve our gear, and return to 14K Camp.
Altitude: 4328m
We practice some climbing skills and spend the day resting to acclimatize.
Altitude: 4328m
We go up to the west side of Genet Basin. We climb a series of glaciated rolls, gaining the Upper West Rib. Then we continue through rock bands to Balcony Camp. We cache some gear at Balcony Camp. We return to 14K Camp.
Max altitude: 4968
The day might include some walks if the weather allows.
Altitude: 4328m
We go up the West side of Genet Basin again. We make our way to Balcony Camp. There we retrieve our gear, set camp and stay for the night. The views over the Alaska Range are outstanding.
Altitude: 4968m
We will ascend through snow bands and granite rocks on the Upper West Rib. The views over the South Face of Denali are outstanding. There is a steep technical climbing portion, and then we reach the Football Field at 5852m. Then we continue climbing to the top of Pig Hill and the summit ridge, and traverse the ridge to the top of the South Peak. We take some time at the summit before descending the West Buttress route back to 17K Camp.
We descend from 17K camp to 11K Camp down the West Buttress, stopping at 14K Camp to get our belongings.
Altitude: 3414m
We continue our descent down to Kahiltna Base Camp.
Altitude: 2225m
We return to Talkeetna by plane. Overnight at Latitude 62.
Travel to Anchorage International Aiport to fly back home.
More info
You need to bring your own lunches packed for the whole expedition.
Meeting point
4.6
(36)
Mountain Guide
One of our certified guides will take you skiing and climbing to some of the best spots in North America. In the USA we offer trips in California, Colorado, Maine, Alaska, Oregon, Arizona, Washington, Montana, Nevada, Texas, Utah and Vermont. And in Canada, you'll find tours in Quebec, Alberta and British Columbia.
Languages
English
Andree
David
Great guides and great snow!
Peggy
Will was great wise and fun to spend the day with.
douglas
Drew
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