Nevado Tocllaraju 4-day ascent by the normal route

Join a local certified mountain guide from Huaraz, on this 4-day ascent to the summit of the Nevado Tocllaraju. It's one of the three jewels of the Ishinca Valley, in the Cordillera Blanca!

Cordillera Blanca

4 Days

May - Sep

Description

Welcome to one of the most challenging adventures in the Quebrada Ishinca: the ascent to the Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m).

As you may known, the Quebrada Ishinca hosts three of the most demanding Peruvian peaks: the Urus (5495 m), the Ishinca (5530 m) and our star of the day, the Tocllaraju. It is a very famous three-in-one mountaineering tour I also offer. You can check out this option here.

But today I want to propose a different plan. During this 4-day ascent I am leading, I would like to help you conquer the summit of the Nevado Tocllaraju. We'll have two alternative routes: the northwest ridge or the west face.

The Tocllaraju west face offers a more direct ascension but it is a very difficult route since it has slopes of 60° – 75° degrees of inclination. On the other hand, the northwest ridge is a bit longer but it is less demanding. It is the "normal route".

This amazing adventure will take you through the famous Ishinca Valley. It is a great destination for those who want to climb a 5000 or 6000 meter peak. However, the highlight of this place is its scenic beauty. Even if you do not reach the top, you will enjoy an unparalleled landscape.

As for the itinerary, a transfer will take us from Huaraz to Pashpa. From there, we must walk to the Ishinca Base Camp. On the next day, we will arrive at the Moraine Camp (4950 m), just below the west face of the Tocllaraju.

So, we will climb a line on the south end to join the ridge, which is 100 meters from the summit. The ascent will take us around 7 hours in total. Finally, we will descent abseiling the snowy summit by the northwest ridge.

The best season to go on this adventure is from May to September. All participants must have prior mountaineering experience as well as an excellent fitness level.

The maximum of guests I can lead is 10 people. If you are on your own, you can join an open group I already have. On the contrary, I will open a new group for you and your friends.

So, don't wait any longer and make your reservation. I will be here, waiting for your contact. Let's plan this amazing climbing trip together!

Price includes

Accommodation included
Guiding fee
Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Transport during the trip
Porters
Mountain guide expenses
Personal porters
Mules and horses
Tents
Rope
Cooking utensils
Snacks
Drinks
Clean drinkable water

Price details

Not included:
• International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
• Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
• Exit tax at the airport in Lima
• Travel accident and health insurance
• Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
• Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
• Personal expenses
• Acclimatization Tour
• Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
• Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
• Domestic flight Airline ticket LCPeru
• Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
• Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
• Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
• Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
• Tips four our local team

Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4250 m)

We’ll leave Huaraz across the Callejón de Huaylas towards the village of Paltay. We’ll continue to Pashpa (3400 m), up to the small Cochapampa Lake. Here we’ll meet our local team of donkey drivers. Then, we will start an easy climb through the Ishinca Valley to our campsite, near Refugio Don Bosco. Overnight camp (-/L/D).

Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp - Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4950 m)

After lunch, we will start the ascent through a steep moraine in direction to the edge of the glacier. From this point you can see the Tocllaraju (6034 m) very very close. After 4-5 hiking hours we’ll set up our high camp on the moraine (B/L/D).

Day 3: Moraine Camp - Tocllaraju Peak (6034 m) - Ishinca Base Camp

Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we’ll start to ascend over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because of the changes suffered by the glacier year after year, the technical ice climbing is also different each new season. We might find small 60-degree walls of ice. The final section before the summit is secured with fixed ropes. Once at the top, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca.

Finally, we will descend to the base camp. A total activity of about 12 hours. We’ll spend the last nigh in tents (B/L/D).

Day 4: Ishinca Base Camp - Trekking to Cochapampa Lake (3400 m) - Transfer to Huaraz

After breakfast we’ll start an easy return to Pashpa. Today the donkeys will carry our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with quenual trees, native flora of the high Andes. In Pashpa our transport will be waiting. We’ll probably arrive Huaraz early and have lunch there. Overnight stay in a hotel of the city (B/L/-).

Details

More info

Not included in the price:

International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
Exit tax at the airport in Lima
Travel accident and health insurance
Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
Personal expenses
Acclimatization Tour
Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
Tips

Meeting point

Huaraz

FAQs

What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb this mountain? Is this program suitable for children or older people?

Good physical condition is needed for this summit, it is not recommended for the elderly or children

How far in advance should I start training and what kind of training do you suggest?

The most recommended is to climb some small mountains or do some climbing courses before going to this summit.If some technical equipment is very necessary, our company also rents mountain equipment.

Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment, and if so, what would be the approximate cost of that?

If some technical equipment is very necessary, our company also rents mountain equipment.

Will there be porters to help to carry group and personal equipment?

To get to the base camp we are going with donkeys, and to get to the high camp a porter is included, if you want an extra porter to carry your things there is an additional cost, for more information contact us, the approximate cost for a porter is 65 USD per day.

How will accommodation and meals be handled on the mountain?

Breakfast, picknis, dinner is included, and we will spend the night in tents, if you have more questions we can make an appointment by WhatsApp. We can called you and explain.

What happens in the event of bad weather?

In a matter of weather, if the summit cannot be reached, it is better to return for the safety of the group, we make this decision at the moment, now if you want to add one more day to the program, there is an additional cost, for more information contact with us.

Are there any other special requirements such as permits/insurance/vaccines that we need to consider before the tour?

For now there is no other additional issue, there is only one payment for the Huascaran National Park, the sum of 150 soles.

What is the guide-to-client ratio to climb this mountain?

A guide can only take a maximum of 2 people, 3 pax is possible but better is 2 pax by a local guide

What is the best time of the year to climb this mountain?

The best season is from June to September.

Can I join a group?

Yes, it is better to join a group if the budget is much better.

About the guide

Peru

4.6

(20)

Guide Agency

Peru Expeditions is a Guide Agency and Tour Operator based in Huaraz, Peru.

It's a family-owned travel agency, which was founded more than 35 years ago, and is now managed by IFMGA-guide Juventino and his son, Eric.

We organize trekkings and mountain expeditions in Cordillera Blanca, and all around Peru.

Languages

| English

Certificates

AGMP | IFMGA

Request more information

What people are saying about Peru

He was very kind, patient and helped me to reach my goal the citadel of Machupicchu. One day I wanted to quit but he encouraged me to continue and waited for my step.

We did the MTB-Huarascan-Circuit (Crossing Punta Olimpica Pass and Portachuelo de Llanganuco Pass) with Eric Albinos „Peru Expedition“. All, the transfers, the hotel stays, the acclimatization tours and the circuit itself, was well organized. Eric and his staff were flexible to our wishes and very helpful. Our Guide Joni is an excellent mountain bike-guide and good tailor too if something is torn. The cook prepared delicious meals during the circuit. The camping equipment was in very good condition. We (Karin, Franz. Wolfgang) can fully recommend „Eric´s Peru Expeditions“.

Alexey

Marcela

The agency gave me a guide Darwin, not Juventino. Climb was good, easy just walking. There is one dangerous section near the moraine area with very loose gravel. So make sure you don't slip there or you are dead. I stayed in refugio at the base camp which was much more comfy than camping. Darwin was good but give clients some breaks once in a while, not rush too much. It's a high altitude climbing after all.