Piz Bernina and Piz Palü 4-day guided ascent

Bernd, an IFMGA-certified guide, takes you the summit of Piz Bernina (4049m) and Piz Palü (3900m), on this classic mountaineering tour in the Eastern Alps, starting from the Diavolezza Hut.

Alps

4 Days

Aug

High

Intermediate

Description

The Bernina Range is certainly one of the most beautiful and impressive mountain groups in the Alps. It lies onthe Central Eastern Alps and it is one of the highest ranges in Europe. I invite you to join me and climb Piz Bernina (4049m), the highest peak in the massif, and the Piz Palü (3900m).

The Piz Bernina is the only 4000-meter peak in the Eastern Alps. It is also one of the few isolated four-thousanders in the Alps. The Piz Palü, a large glaciated massif, lies on a ridge running from west to east. It is composed of three main summits.

On the first day, we will ascend by cable car to the Diavolezza mountain hut, in Pontresina. Next day, from the Fortezza ridge we head towards the Marco e Rosa Hut (3600m). From there, on the third day, we climb over the Spalla ridge to the Piz Bernina summit (4049 m) and back to the hut. Finally, on the last day, we climb the Piz Palü (3905 m) and descend to the Diavolezza. A cable car take us back to the valley.

In order to join this climbing tour, you need to be in very good shape, for ascents of about 6-8 hours. You also need a good crampon technique for easy rock passages (II – III degree) and iced terrain.

Want to join me on this mountaineering tour? Check the date below, book your trip and get ready for an amazing climbing tour in the Bernina massif. If you are looking for another mountaineering tour in the Alps, you should check this great 8 summits tour in Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa.

Price includes

Guiding fee
Mountain guide expenses

Price details

Extra Cost: approx. €75 per day, for halfboard meals at the mountain hut; transfer/cable car approx. €35.

Itinerary

Day 1: Diavolezza Mountain Hut

We will meet at 3 pm at the car park of the Diavolezza cable car . We ascend by cable car to the Diavolezza mountain hut.

Day 2: Fortezza Ridge-Marco e Rosa Hut

From the Fortezza ridge we head towards the Marco e Rosa Hut (3600m), a great an easy climb.

Day 3: Piz Bernina summit

From the Marco e Rosa Hut, we climb over the Spalla ridge to the Piz Bernina summit (4049 m) and back to the hut.

Day 4: Piz Palü crossing

From the Hut, we start the Piz Palü crossing (3905 m) and descend to Diavolezza. A cable car ride take us back into the valley.

About the guide

Bernd

5.0

(25)

Mountain Guide

IFMGA/IVBV Certified mountain, ski and canyoning guide, member of DAV and VDBS mountaineering and sport climbing teaching and training team. I’ve been part of the VDBS team for the formation and training of German mountain guides for 20 years.

I started climbing at the age of 17. Since 1987 I am certified mountain guide and a passion has become a profession. I live in Scharnitz / Tyrol and I am leader of the moutaineering school Alpenwelt Karwendel in Mittenwald.
Ice climbing in norway, skitouring in morocco, rock climbing in cuba or high mountains in the himalaya - I like it to explore new areas around the world. I led a DAV training expedition for talented young mountaineers in the Tian Shan mountain range with climbing Khan Tengri and did several expeditions to the karakorum mountains and the himalayas.

As a full-time mountain guide, I feel at home in the Karwendel and Wetterstein mountains as well as in the mountains and climbing areas worldwide. I am happy to accompany you as a guide to your desired goal!

Languages

German | French | English

Certificates

VDBS

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What people are saying about Bernd

Olli

Better than I could ever have expected. Bernd was very skilled guide, able to smoothly adjust to my skill level and the conditions on the go. Very fiendly, easy to communicate with. Made my day extremely enjoyable and memorable.

Andrew

Bernd was an amazing guide! We had a great time doing a 10 pitch climb on the Alpspitze mountain, and some fun single pitch afterward. As I am a somewhat experienced climber, he was a wonderful guide who gave me the freedom and trust to lead pitches and to belay him. Bernd is an excellent and smart climber who was able to push me to do my best and provide an incredible experience, while being patient while I enjoyed climbing on limestone in the alps for the very first time!

Barbara

Michael

Undine

Bernd is a great teacher and guide. My husband and I are so glad that we had him as first timers for ice climbing. Aside from being knowledgeable, he is a very kind, warm and genuine person.