3 days full of excitement climbing the two famous Ecuadorian peaks: North and South Illinizas. Come with a local certified guide on a guided trip that you will never forget.
Andes
3 Days
Jan - Mar, Oct - Dec
The Illiniza is an active volcano that, as a result of a big eruption 5000 years ago, formed the two peaks actually known as North and South Illinizas.
North Illiniza can be climbed in only 1 day if you are well trained and have the enough acclimatization. If not, it would be better to do it in 2 days so that you can be well acclimatized before the Cotopaxi climb.
The ascent to North and South Illinizas is always better with the company of a certified mountain guide. That’s why I am here, telling you how amazing this climbing experience will be if you come with me!
For more details, here you have a complete itinerary of this 3-day climb to North and South Illinizas Peaks:
DAY 1: Quito – La Virgen – North Iliniza
From anywhere of the country I suggest to be in El Chaupi Village a day before. As it is located 3.300 meters high it will help you to adapt your body, enabling the climb to the summit. The village counts on many hostels and lodges to overnight.
By the morning after breakfast at 7 am we leave in a 4X4 towards La Virgen or the Illinizas parking located at 3.950 meters. From La Virgen we will hike up to Nuevos Horizontes Hut (4.700m) for 2 or 3 hours. Once in the hut we can drink a coca tea and then, continue to the summit for other 2-3 more hours of basic rock climbing.
When we are finally in the summit we can enjoy the majestic surroundings views. Depending on weather and climate we may stay in the summit for 15 or 20 minutes before the descent. Hike down to the hut where we will dinner and sleep.
DAY 2: Nuevos Horizontes – Hike up to South Illiniza Foot
Our second day will be dedicated to resting. We will have breakfast at 8 am and then, we will take a short walk up to the route entrance of South Illiniza, reaching an altitude of 4.850 meters. After that, we will return down to the hut to lunch and prepare our climbing equipment. By the afternoon, we will dinner and overnight at 18 pm.
DAY 3: Nuevos Horizontes Hut – Iliniza Sur – Quito
We will get up at 2 am in order to have breakfast and start early the ascent to the South Illiniza. After 3 or 4 hours of climbing in a positive vertical drop of 50/55 degrees we will finally get to the summit. From there we can admire a amazing sunrise behind the famous Cotopaxi.
Return to the hut for a rest and then, continue hiking down to La Virgen where our transfer will be waiting to take us back to Quito.
What to bring with you:
Small backpack, hiking shoes (better if waterproof), thermal pants, waterproof pants, long sleeve thermal shirt, an extra long sleeve thermal shirt, one fleece or polar, a windbreaker jacket, gloves, a cap, a buff, sunscreen, sun glasses, a water bottle and… A lot of energy!
Prices vary depending on the group size. You can see them in the following list:
1 person: USD 590
2 people: USD 390 p/person
3-4 people: USD 360 p/person
5-6 people: USD 340 p/person
Are you going to miss this opportunity of climbing North and South Illinizas in an unique trip? I don’t think so. Get in touch with me to book your place and plan your unforgettable climbing experience among this volcano. I will be waiting anxiously!
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
4.6
(24)
Mountain Leader
ASEGUIM Guide from Ecuador
Fernando Iza was born and raised in the Cotopaxi Province of Ecuador and knows the country’s peaks intimately. He is an official ASEGUIM mountain guide with more than 18 years of mountaineering experience climbing in all of Ecuador, as well as in South America, Switzerland, France, and the United States.
Fernando has worked for mountaineering companies in Ecuador, Europe and the United States from a young age. Now, he has set up his own basecamp at Ilinizas Mountain Lodge, right next to Iliniza Volcano, Rumiñahui Volcano, and the famous Cotopaxi Volcano. He has summited Cotopaxi more than 637 times and has summitted Chimborazo Volcano close to 200 times.
Fernando got his degree in Tourism Technology at Cenestur Institute, and in 2021 started studying Business administration with Cuosera.
He has completed important courses such as:
The most spectacular guided tours that Fernando has done.
Languages
German | French | English
Certificates
ASEGUIM
MICHAIL
Fernando is a very experienced guide, with a great know-how in hiking high altitudes. The hike was demanding, so having a guide who was responsible and knew how to coach us while climbing was extremely important. We could not make it to the top, but the adventure was absolutely worthy!
Carolyn
Had a really great trip climbing in the Ecuadorian Andes. Fernando is a very capable guide. His true passion is big, technical climbs and he is a less excited about the more basic acclimatization hikes. The lodging and food in El Chaupi is great. There was not a ton of advanced communication and the pre-trip prep each night before was a little sparse and lacking in detail. There was limited flexibility if we wanted to adjust the itinerary (such as including an extra walk to a lagoon, ect). Overall, a good experience.
Jana
There were no briefings about the upcoming itineraries, I’d mostly find along the way, what’s the plan. He would make changes to his moods. He didn’t inform me in adavance about the specifics of each refugio/ lodge/ camp concerning the distance from car, electricity and would make fun/made snide comments “your choice” of the things I packed at the aftermath, but offered no guidance. I have read from others that he is very knowledgeable and explained a lot- that hasn’t been my experience, he surely is an apt mountaineer, but he wasn’t actively explaining or showing things, he was just always on his cellphone. He could be very short, abrasive and inpatient. At one time even another climber intervened “to save me”
Sebastien
Our guide Fernando was great to adapt the trip for our two little girls. A great experience it was fir us all. Thank you.
frederic
Fernando and Sergio are very good guides, not only very safe and motivating in the mountains, but very nice between the climbs. And i have learned a lot too about the culture in the country. Their hotel near Illniza is perfectly located, safe and you are received as if your were at home with Fernando's family. And they will take care of everything, so you just have to concentrate yourself on the climbs. Thank you!
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