Join IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide, Octavio, for a 6-day ascent to the top of the breathtaking Nevado Huascaran in the famed Cordillera Blanca Range
Andes, Cordillera Blanca
6 Days
Jul, Aug
High
Advanced
Come with me on a 6-Day trip to the summit of Nevado Huascaran (6,768m).
There are many beautiful mountains in the Cordillera Blanca. But the Nevado Huascaran is the highest tropical one. And it is also the highest peak in Peru. Not to mention that it is the fourth highest peak in all of South America. After Aconcagua, Ojos del Salado, and Monte Pissis. So needless to say, that when it comes to the world's most impressive peaks, the Nevado Huascaran is definitely in the conversation. And with such a list of accolades, it's easy to see why climbing it would be such an adventure.
The details of the climb itself read like a legend. When read aloud, they sound like the notes of an explorer searching for El Dorado, whose tales are written off as wild fiction. However, whether it's walking through a magical eucalyptus forest, or manoeuvring through an enormous granite moraine before walking on the ancient icy surface of a glacier. Or spending time in the village of Musho. Or zigzagging in the dark, avoiding cracks, on your way to the snowy summit. Before looking out at the Cordillera Blanca as the sun rises. The truth is more amazing than the fiction could ever be.
This amazing mountain's summit is one of the furthest points from the Earth's core. And with the lowest gravitational pull on the planet, it would not be a stretch to say that after you climb to the top, you will reach a point remarkably close to the clouds, with a feeling that you can actually float up and touch them.
So let me guide you on this unforgettable 6-day journey to the summit of the magical Nevado Huascaran. A mountain that was deservedly named after the 16th century Incan Emperor, Huascar. I'll be awaiting your message.
And if you want to keep exploring Peru's Mythical Peaks, you can also join me for an ascent of the famed Nevado Alpamayo on This Expedition.
From Huaraz we will drive to a village called Musho, where we will start our hike. First, we will go through a forest of eucalyptus trees, until we get to base camp. We will also have donkeys and donkey drivers with us during this hike. Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
This day we will begin our hike by crossing a large granite moraine until we reach a wide glacier, where we will get to 5260m and set up camp for the night. Approx. 5 to 6 hours.
The hike to Camp 2 will start early in order to avoid the crossing seracs after the couloir. This is an easy trail of approx. 4 hours.
The hike will start at 1 am, taking a zigzag trail in order to avoid the crevasses. Then, we will climb narrow passages of 50 to 60° of inclination. After climbing all of them, we will reach a wide glacier where we will carry on zigzagging until we reach the Huascaran summit. From the top, you will be able to appreciate the mountain range of the Cordillera Blanca. Then we will go down to Camp 2 tospend the night. Approx 6 to 7 hours.
We will take the same route as before and walk for approximately 4-5 hours until we reach Base Camp, where we will spend the night.
We will descend to the village of Musho. The walk will be approximately 3 hours, before taking the transport to Huaraz. The drive will take approximately 2.30 hours.
More info
The price also includes: Donkeys-Donkey drivers-Cook and helpers-Private transportation from Huaraz-according to the program-to Huaraz-Tent for 2 people./// The price doesn't include: Aclimatization tour-Entrance fee to Huascaran National Park-Entrance fee to the Comunity (Huayhuash)-Horse(in case of emergency, on some trekking parts)- Not mentioned food and beverages- Personal camping and climbing equipment (sleeping bag, climbing boots, crampons, ice axe, gaiters, harness, snow glasses, appropriate clothes, personal medicines, etc.)
Meeting point
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
4.9
(21)
Mountain Guide
Founder, manager and IFMGA Mountain Guide of Andean Peaks. I work together with my brother Eloy and a team of IFMGA mountain guides, and UIMLA Mountain Leaders. If I'm not available to guide you, one of my qualified colleagues will be your guide.
I was born and raised in the hamlet of Yarush in 1987, at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca. From very young age i was born my passion for the mountains. In 2003 I started as enthusiast to climbing in rock next to my brother Eloy. In 2009 i obtained the title as ''official guide of high mountain''. I enjoy doing sports climbing and opening new routes in the cordillera Blanca, and in other countries. My wide experience has taken me to climb most of the mountains in cordillera blanca.
Languages
| English
Certificates
AGMP | UIAGM
Jeffrey
Octavio wss injured and we ended up with Hector instead. He is new, but is very friendly and hard working. I would acclimatize more than the stated 3 days at one of the lagoons if you want to increase your chance at success. Communication was lacking a little prior to the trip with no contact until the day before the trip. Overall the crew was great and went above and beyond my expectations.
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