Join an IFMGA guide on an all-inclusive Mount Tetnuldi climb in Georgia. Experience a remote and wild environment of the Caucasus mountain range, while summiting an iconic peak in the Svaneti region.
Private
Caucasus
8 Days
Jun - Sep
High
Intermediate
I am offering my guests a once in a lifetime experience on an All-Inclusive Mount Tetnuldi Climb in the Caucasus range. Mount Tetnuldi (4858m) is one of Georgia’s most fascinating peaks- located in the isolated and medieval Svaneti region.
Here is a truly wild mountaineering experience, offering full immersion in nature, away from the crowds and huts. I recommend my guests to have some prior experience in mountaineering and a great fitness level, however, this is not a technical climb. A good training for Mount Tetnuldi could be climbing Mount Kazbek with me, which is a less difficult peak in another region of Georgia. If you are not sure about your experience level, feel free to contact me, so I can guide you on this decision.
On my 8-day program, we will meet you at the airport of either Tbilisi or Kutaisi and you will be transferred with our driver to Mestia, a small town in the Svaneti region. (From Tbilisi airport you can expect an 8-hour drive and from Kutaisi airport a 5-hour drive. The road is very scenic and beautiful)
In Mestia, I will go over a full equipment check with you and a briefing about the week ahead. I will also spend a full day on the mountain training you on specific techniques needed for successfully summiting Mount Tetnuldi. These are essential mountaineering techniques that you can use for the rest of your mountaineering expeditions in life.
During our ascent, we will cross a glacier and will also need to do some scrambling on the final ridge to the summit. After experiencing a rewarding view at the top, I will safely guide you back down to the camp and then to Mestia, where we will stay at a guesthouse and eat delicious Georgian cuisine.
Myself or one of my team members of IFMGA guides will be happy to guide you on this classic route to the summit of one of our favorite peaks in Georgia. Mount Tetnuldi is a majestic peak and never tires us, no matter how many times we climb it.
Contact me, and I’ll be happy to begin planning your ascent.
The driver will pick you up at the airport (TBS or KUT) and transfer you to your hotel (Tbilisi or Kutaisi). If you prefer to go directly to Svaneti, depending on your arrival time, the driver will take you directly (it’s a 5-hour drive from Kutaisi and 9-hour drive from Tbilisi). If travel and weather conditions allow it, there is an option to fly from Tbilisi to Svaneti. In this case, we will plan accordingly.
After an early breakfast, the driver will transfer you to Mestia, Svaneti. Check in to the hotel where you will meet your local Mountain guide. Trip and weather briefing. The guide will check to make sure you have all adequate equipment and clothing . This day will be reserved to prepare and rent any missing equipment if necessary. Rest for the night.
After and early breakfast, you will meet with the guide and driver. You will be transferred to the top of Mount Tetnuldi Ski Resort, about an hour drive from the hotel. At 3,000m, the trek towards the base camp begins. After climbing a 30 degrees couloir, you will come across a glacier, where you will put on crampons and rope in. After 2 hours of walking across the glacier, we will reach the basecamp, located on a protected and beautiful plateau at 3700m. This camp is situated near the glacier lake, with beautiful scenery. We will set up the tents and prepare our camp for the next 3-4 days. Dinner and rest
Top of Tetnuldi Ski Resort: 3000m
Mount Tetnuldi Base Camp altitude: 3700m
Vertical gain climbing: 700m
Travel time climbing: 5-6 hours
We will spend this day acclimatizing and training. After an early breakfast we will proceed to a glacier next to the base camp and climb up to 4,000m, where your guide will go through important demonstrations on climbing, equipment, and safety techniques. We will review crampon, and ice axe usage. There will be exercises for glacier walking and icy slope walking. All of these exercises will further build our foundation and confidence to reach the summit of Tetnuldi. We will have an early dinner/late lunch and rest early to prepare for early morning rising.
After an early breakfast, we will gather and prepare backpacks and equipment to make our start towards the Tetnuldi summit. At this point, we will start the climb with headlamps. Before we reach 4,300m, the majority of the climb will be on low incline terrain. However, there will be one small section of increased incline lasting about 20 minutes. We will cross several crevasses, then reaching the ridge from where the route becomes more technical. There will be drops on both sides of the ridge, where you will be able to view the green valleys below the pristine white glacier. The ridge is about 1KM long, where we will need to do some easy scrambling on the rock in easy short sessions. The ridge will become narrow and steep up to 40 degrees. It might also be icy depending on the conditions. Should it be icy, the guide will fix the ropes and you will proceed to climb on top rope. After 7-8 hours in total climbing, we will then reach the summit. We will enjoy this moment and contemplate the highest peaks of the Caucasus mountains. Then, we will spend 4-5 hours on the descent to the base camp via the same route we ascended. Dinner and rest.
Mount Tetnuldi Base Camp: 3700m
Mount Tetnuldi Summit: 4858m
Vertical gain during day: 1160m
Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach summit is between 7-8 hours
Descent time: 4-5 hours
Reserve day in case of bad weather on summit day. If we are unable to leave the hut and attack the summit, we will spend this day resting in the hut and saving our energy to summit the next day.
After breakfast, we will pack up camp and descend to the Tetnuldi ski resort. The driver will meet us at this point and transfer us back to hotel. Check in and rest
Breakfast and check out from hotel. Departure day. Driver will transfer you from hotel to departure airport in Tbilisi or Kutaisi.
Technical equipment: Harness – Mountaineering or climbing harness with 2 screw karabiners and 60cm sling. --Harness should be able to fit with your mountaineering jackets on. Helmet – Standard climbing helmet. Alpine Climbing Boots – Shoes should be waterproof, insulated, and with a solid sole. Preferably, semi-automatic or automatic crampons should fit the boot. (B2 or B3 crampons). The boots should be designed for alpine mountaineering and ice climbing. Overboots / Gaiters – Gaiters are essential to avoid getting the boots wet. Protecting you from getting wet and from hitting your trousers with crampons. Crampons – Crampons should be automatic or semi-automatic. Designed for ice and mixed climbing. 12 point steel with anti-balling, which is preventing snow from sticking. Ice Axe – Designed for technical mountaineering and for ice climbing. With adze and sharpened picks. 1 pair is needed. Trekking Poles – Telescopic to suit your size and for different terrain. Personal Gear: Backpack (40-50L) – This size bag is recommended because larger is unnecessary and leads to excess weight. Recommended to bring a waterproof cover in case of rain. Headlamp – Fit to size. Eye protection – sunglasses for mountaineering that fit face snug and tight. Should be 3-4th category Waterproof Shell Jacket (1) Down Jacket (1) – Light-medium weight preferably. Hooded or without hood is fine. Mid Layer Jacket (1) – Fleece Jacket to put on top of thermal layer. Thermal Base Layer Shirt (1) – Can be a synthetic or wool layer. Should be long sleeve, preferably ¼ or ½ zipper for ventilation. Waterproof Shell Trousers (1 pair) Thermal Base Layer Underwear/Leggings ( 1pair) – Can be synthetic or wool. Beanie hat, buff, balaclava – Gear to keep the head and face warm. Water Proof Insulated Gloves or Mittens – 1 Pair. For the summit Trekking Gloves – 1 pair. Should be warm, but not bulky. Only for trekking and on the base camp. Socks – Lightweight and medium weight mountaineering wool socks. (3 pairs) Base Camp Slippers – Comfortable slippers for tent and basecamp wear. Comfortable trekking trousers (1 pairs) – For leisure wear in base camp and for trekking Basecamp kit and toiletries – Includes toothpaste and toothbrush. Deodorant. Soap. Baby wipes or wet napkins. If you wear contact lenses, bring lenses solution, contact holder, and bring extra lenses incase of losing a pair. Microfiber towel – Used for drying hands and face. Body size is not needed, as there is no shower at the basecamp. Mess kit – Bowl and utensils for base camp and climbing meals Sleeping bag – Suitable for -15 Degrees – -10 Degrees Celsius Sleeping mat/pad – Rollable or inflatable. Reusable water bottle – Up to 1 liter. Water bottle should be light and with you to keep you hydrated on trekking days. Thermos – Up to 1 liter. Thermos will be used in base camp and taking to the summit, which will keep liquids warm. 50+ SPF Sun protection – SPF for lips and face. Batteries – Extra batteries for the headlamp. Any personal medication Mobile Phone
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Mountain Guide
I am a IFMGA/GMGA certified mountain guide, with more than 10 years of experience in the Caucasus mountain region.
Mountain Guiding and alpine sport is the most gratifying passion in my life. As an official team member of the United Federation of Georgian Mountaineers, I have led some of the most challenging ascents and expeditions in the Caucasus. In addition, I have completed successful ascents in Himalayas, Tian Shan, Pamir, Alps, and more. Aside from climbing, I have a big enthusiasm for ski mountaineering. I have completed many first ski descents in the region, such as Mt. Tetnuldi West Face descent, and more. In the winter and spring season, I enjoy guiding my guests on the backcountry of the Caucasus mountains, and sharing my experience and love for this region. In the summer season, I guide groups up iconic peaks such as Mt. Kazbek and more.
I am the founder of The Alpine Project, a full-scale mountaineering tour agency. My team and I are experts in the region, and we are deeply inspired by guiding our guests and welcoming them to Georgia. Please contact me if you have any further questions about my experience and my offers.
Languages
Russian | Georgian | English
Certificates
IFMGA | GMGA
Dirk
Had a great time with Beka on Tetnuldi. He's a very competent and credentialed guide. He genuinely wanted to make sure that I had a great experience. In addition to the climb, he provided a lot of extra knowledge and history about the local region, and introduced me to some great Georgian cuisine. I will be using him again for future climbs in beautiful Georgia.
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