Mount Logan, King's Trench

Jeff, an IFMGA certified mountain guide, wants to guide you to the summit of Canada's highest peak, Mount Logan.

Group

Saint Elias Mountains

20 Days

May, Jun

Very high

Advanced

Highlights

Climb the highest mountain in Canada!
Enjoy a challenging 3-week mountaineering adventure.
Discover the remote and awe-inspiring Mount Logan.

Description

Mount Logan (5,959m) is the tallest peak in Canada. That fact alone makes it a glorious mountain to climb.

Canada’s highest peak is Mt Logan in the Yukon Territory, Kluane National Park, at 5960m. Join the Alpine Air Adventure Guides for a ski expedition of a lifetime. The expedition will begin by flying from Haines Jct. in a ski plane to base camp where we will begin acclimatizing by moving gear to progressively higher camps.

The King’s Trench route will be ascended which is the least technical route on the mountain and with the use of ski mountaineering equipment, we will be able to travel efficiently up and down. You must be a strong skier or split boarder.

With three weeks planned for climbing Mt. Logan, we will set up 5 camps up the Kings Trench route to accommodate acclimatization, and once high on the mountain the group will have their summit attempt. A high and very remote peak, there are prerequisites for this trip. If you have not skied or climbed with AAA, a detailed resume of past mountaineering experience will be required.

Mt Logan is not only high, but it is also a very cold place, surrounded by some of the largest ice fields on the planet and very close to the Pacific Ocean, it can be hit hard by weather. Experienced and serious inquiries only, please. A detailed trip itinerary and gear list with training progression recommendations will be sent to you upon deposit.

Even though Mount Logan is the biggest peak in Canada, it feels even bigger when you’re climbing it or skiing down it. And when you reach the top, it feels even bigger still. So send us a request, and enjoy this amazing 3-week adventure to the summit of this amazing mountain.

Price includes

Guiding fee
Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Transport during the trip
Permit and entrance fees

Price details

The price includes the guiding fee, all climbing and camping equipment, flights to and from Haines junction to Mount Logan base camp, food and necessary mountaineering permits.
The price does not include:
GMT taxes
All hotel cost or other accommodation costs including camping at Haines if needed
All food not in the mountain food cache, restaurants ect
Personal flights to and from Whitehorse, Yukon Territory
Beer & Drinks
Gratuities
Trip interruption insurance, highly recommended to protect your costs if you need to cancel leading up to the trip start date.

Details

More info

A more detailed information package including the itinerary and necessary gear list will be provided following registration.

Meeting point

Whitehorse

Equipment you will need to bring

You need to bring: ● Skis recommended are shorter (160 - 185cm) mid-fat to fat ski designed for powder and spring snow conditions. Dynafit tech bindings are preferred ● Climbing skins ● Ski Poles/ split boarders too ● Ski boots/ snowboard boots ● Gaiters insulated needs to fit with ski bindings consider 40 below brand over boots ∙ Ski crampons ● Strap on boot crampons ● Avalanche beacon with fresh batteries ● Snow shovel ● Avalanche probe ● Daypack, 35-45 L ● Expedition pack 65-75L ● Sunglasses, real glacier glasses with side shields ● Ski goggles ● Thermos flask 1 liter ● 2x 1 liter water bottle with insulated holder ● Pee bottle (well marked) ● Sun block & Lip Cream ● Pocket knife or Leatherman style tool ● Eating utensils ● Bowl & plate ● Camp mug ● Headlamp with fresh batteries ● Small Blister & personal 1st-Aid Kit ● -30 deg down sleeping bag ● Insulated therma-rest ● Insulate pad ● Camp pillow ● Camp chair, small & packable ● Camera (s) ● Personal Toilet Items, toothbrush/paste, sleep mask, wet wipes ∙ Heat pads for colder moments ● Lightweight climbing harness for glacier travel ● 3x locking caribiners, 2 non locking caribiners ● 2x 4-6 m long 6mm cord, 1 sewn sling ● 2x ice screws ● Standard light weight ski mountaineering axe 50-70 cm ● 1-2 Large duffle bags Clothing List It is ideal to wear light clothing of varying thicknesses that can be 'layered' to achieve comfort and versatility. The most important consideration for clothing is the ability to regulate temperature as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest and from the ascent to the descent. ● Polypro underwear (top & bottom) ● Warm pants, fleece ● Warm shirts, 4 pair long sleeve ● Medium weight fleece sweater ● Fleece Jacket or soft shell ● Insulated jacket or vest lighter down ● Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex) ● Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex with side zippers) ● Down or insulated pants ● Lighter weight ski pant for climbing ● Down expedition parka ● Socks 10-12 pair ● Wool or fleece hat ● Waterproof ski gloves ● Down mitts or large over mitts ● Neck tube/Buff ● Balaclava ● Sun hat full brim ● Down booties with gaiters ● Camp clothing, comfy pants, cotton t-shirt

FAQs

What will the conditions be like on the mountain?

Conditions in the mountains vary widely due to many circumstances. Weather will often dictate the decision of the guide i.e. rain, snowfall, blue skies. The guides will make decisions with the weather and travel conditions in mind. This may require an alpine start to the day that typically is around 4 AM but may be earlier depending on the objective.

What will the group dynamics be like?

Not everyone travels at the same pace we will always travel relative to the pace of the slower group member. The guides reserve the right to make decisions on where the group will go and which route the group will climb.

Should I purchase insurance?

It is highly recommended to purchase medical insurance (if applicable) and traveler’s trip interruption insurance to cover travel costs and trip costs in the event you have to cancel your trip due to personal illness or injury, family emergency or other personal conflicts. If climbing within Canadian National Parks, the purchase of a park pass is required and this acts as mountain rescue insurance if needed.

What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?

We understand that finding the perfect place to stay is an essential part of your adventure experience. To help you with this, we’ve curated a list of three highly recommended hotels that offer comfort, convenience, and a touch of local charm. These accommodations are well-suited for adventurers looking to relax and rejuvenate after an exciting day of exploration

Westmark Skagway Skagway USA

See rooms

Historic Skagway Inn Skagway USA

See rooms

Glacier Hotel Skagway USA

See rooms

About the guide

Jeff

4.9

(63)

Mountain Guide

Alpine Air Adventures is an independent mountain guiding business run by Jeff Bullock. I am a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide, with my training and certification through the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, and the Canadian Avalanche Association.

We specialize in outdoor Banff adventures including: rock climbing, ice climbing, alpine climbing, backcountry skiing and snowboarding, avalanche courses and improvised rope rescue courses.

Based out of Banff, Alberta, Canada in the heart of the rugged Canadian Rocky Mountains, Alpine Air offers everything mountain. My main emphasize is to offer safe and unforgettable Banff adventures to my guests. With the allure of the mountains right at my doorstep I am always keen to take on any adventure and I am excited to have you along. Contact me to begin organizing your dream mountain ascent or descent.

Languages

French | English

Certificates

ACMG | IFMGA

Request more information

What people are saying about Jeff

I have been doing backcountry ski trips with AAA for 3 years now and have been impressed every time. They're very good at adapting the plan to fit the group and have the knowledge to take you into some full-on terrain if that's what you desire. Thanks for pushing my limits and I can't wait for the next one!

My partner Jen and I had 2 days splitboarding in the Lake Louise area with AAA. Jeff and Tamara were both super friendly and easy to get along with as well as extremely professional and knowledgeable. Both days were exactly what we had hoped for and more, and we were able to learn so much from Jeff and Tamara’s expertise on the mountain. We had some of the best runs of our lives and will definitely contact Jeff and AAA when we are next in Banff for more adventures.

The back country awaits! Could be just over that ridge. You’ll never know unless you get a guide to show you! I took a one day peak beyond the well known slopes of Lake Louise with my awesome guide. Someone once told me riding those lines is like flying - and it is totally true! I’ll be back for more.

Jay

I had a superb time and Jerry my guide was brilliant with safety being always paramount.

Sue

Our guide was Jason (not Jeff) and although he was a great guy, he appeared to not be very familiar with the location in which we skied. I was also surprised by the fact that he never asked us about our skiing abilities or the type of terrain we hoped to ski. Due to the avalanche conditions and snow cover, we were in terrain where the trees were too tight to ski and so we skied down an avalanche path (with minimal hazard from above) that was quite steep with a lot of exposed vegetation and small cliff bands. For two of the three of us, this terrain was at the edge of our comfort zones and so the ski down was not very enjoyable. Afterwards, I couldn't help wondering if we had been asked about our interests and skiing level, if we might have found lower angle terrain with a less dense forest cover. Having said all this, once Jason realized I was in a place I was not happy about, he was very attentive to assisting me through the terrain. In summary, the three of us paid a lot of money for a ski tour that was not great and we wondered whether it should have been cancelled if this was the best terrain to be found given the conditions.