Mount Logan via King’s Trench route ski mountaineering tour (Canadian Side)
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Climb giant Mount Logan (5,960m) in the southwest corner of the Yukon Territory, in Western Canada. Join a 20- to 25-day advanced ski mountaineering expedition led by IFMGA-certified mountain guide David.
+1 Days
May, Jun
Very high
Advanced
Description
If you are a passionate, advanced ski mountaineer looking for a new, challenging adventure, this trip is for you!
Mount Logan (5,960m) is located in the Saint Elias Mountains – shared by the United States and Canada –, in the southwest corner of the Yukon Territory, in western Canada. It is part of the Kluane National Park (22,013km2) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Logan is the highest peak in Canada and the second in North America. It is surrounded by the world’s largest non-polar ice terrain and located 140 kilometers from the nearest road, making it a very challenging destination for alpinists.
There are numerous routes to Mount Logan’s top. On our trip we will ascend via the famous King’s Trench route. This track offers a long, glacial landscape, generally pretty straightforward for ski touring, and involves overnight high altitude winter camping. The ascent is of 3,500 meters over 23 kilometers, and provides a breathtaking view to some of the largest glaciers on Earth. This journey’s main challenge is not the technical difficulty but the possibility of facing extreme weather conditions, plus the physical demands of carrying supplies and equipment at high altitudes during several weeks.
Our expedition will depart from Whitehorse (640m), Yukon’s capital. We will take a small plane to the King’s Trench base camp (2,800m), from where we will begin our gradual ski ascent; at first, pulling supplies and equipment with sleds up to King Col (4,000m); and then carrying everything in our backpacks up to Prospector Col (5,500m). From here to our high camp, we will only climb a maximum of 600 meters per day to ensure the team acclimatizes properly to the high altitude. Finally, we will wait for the best weather conditions to try to reach the main summit.
Please note that the weather will have a great influence on our itinerary and chances of successfully reaching the summit. It is pretty common to encounter big snowstorms with very strong winds during the ascent. Temperatures usually range from -15°C at night to 0°C during the day. Closer to the summit, it will be colder, often below -30°C at night.
This is an advanced ski mountaineering program. You must have overnight winter camping experience and be an intermediate to advanced downhill skier. Previous high altitude mountaineering practice, as well as experience with carrying a heavy backpack (50lbs/22.6kg approx.) while pulling sleds will be very helpful. Participants will have to carry their personal gear and often even some of the group equipment as well.
Don’t miss this uniquely challenging and rewarding ski mountaineering experience. Book your trip now!
If you would like to consider other activities in Canada, check out the 5-day ski tour in the Kokanee Glacier Park in British Columbia and the Mount Columbia ski mountaineering 4-day trip. We can discuss your skill level and experience, and find the tour that suits you best.
Itinerary
Day 1: Camp in Kluane Lake
We will take a 5-hour shuttle from Whitehorse to a landing strip at Kluane Lake, the largest lake in Yukon. Before heading into the mountains to King’s Trench base camp, we will set a camp near the landing strip. Flights can only accommodate two guests at a time and are often delayed due to the weather conditions, so we might have to camp for up to five days or more.
Day 2: Flight to King’s Trench base camp
After an early breakfast, we will fly in a small plane to the basecamp.
Day 3: Beginning of our ascent
After an early breakfast, we will begin our ascent to Mount Logan.
Day 4 to 20: 17-days ascent
We will spend the nights in mountain camps.
Day 21 to 22: Descent
The descent from Mount Logan to our pick-up location and flight back will take 1 or 2 days. Depending on the time, from the landing strip, we will either camp or shuttle back to Whitehorse.
Details
More info
You need to bring:
Technical Equipment: • Alpine Touring skis (lightweight bindings like Dynafit or Silvretta Pure is recommended) • Alpine touring boots (with Vibram sole) • Overboots for higher elevation • Ski poles (with regular powder baskets) • Climbing skins (at least as wide as the waist of your ski) • Ski crampons • Avalanche transceiver (475 megahertz with extra batteries) • Lightweight snow shovel • Avalanche probe • Large sized backpack (70 to 80 liters) with rain cover and outside straps to attach skis. It should be rigged for sled hauling. • Climbing harness for glacier travel • Ice Axe (preferably light weight with a maximum length of 60cm) • Boot crampons (preferably lightweight, e.g. aluminum) • 4 locking carabiners (the guide will bring a full set of Crevasse rescue equipment) • 4 non-locking carabiners • Prusik cords (2 times 5m length of 7mm cord) • 1m section of 6mm cord • 1 X 10mm X 120cm sewn spectra sling • Repair kit / spare parts for your bindings (optional) • Skin wax (a small amount) • Ski goggles • Large duffel bag
Clothing: • Gore Tex shell jacket (expedition style with hood) • Gore Tex outer pants/bibs (wind and waterproof with full side zips) • Down jacket (expedition weight with hood) • Lighter weight pants (water/wind proof for lower elevation and camp) • Fleece pants (heavy weight with full side zips) • Fleece jacket (heavy weight) • Medium weight fleece shirt and vest (e.g. Marmot Driclime) • 3 sets Capilene, fleece or wool underwear, top and bottoms • 2 Pairs of gloves (lightweight and heavier weight) • 1 Pair of expedition weight mitts with over mitts • Neck gaiter & bandanna • 3 pairs of thicker outer socks (synthetic, wool or blend) • 3 pairs of thinner liner socks (polypro type) • 2 hats; one medium weight & one heavy weight covering the ears
Camp & personal supplies: • Down Sleeping bag (mommy style, rated for -30°C) • Sleeping bag liner (optional) • Sleeping pad (3⁄4 or full length Therm-a-Rest) • Sleeping pad, full length Ensolite • Camp booties and over booties (down or synthetic) • 1 liter water bottle with insulated sleeve (no Camel backs) • Pee bottle; 1 liter Nalgene water bottle with wide rim • Lightweight bowl, cup, fork and spoon • Light stuff sacs or zip lock bags to keep your backpack organized • Ear plugs • Sun glasses with side and nose shield, and very good UV protection (plus one extra pair) • Sun screen and lip protection (minimum 30 SPF and waterproof) • Sun hat (preferably with wide rim) • Headlamp with spare batteries and bulb • Personal items (toiletries, hand sanitizer, toothbrush, glasses, foot powder, etc.) • Personal 1 aid (blister kit, prescription drugs, Aspirin & Ibuprofen, etc.) • Pocket knife • Health/travel insurance documents/numbers • Zip lock bag for wallet and other documents to keep them dry (recommended) • Camera, batteries, music • A small book and/or writing material
Meeting point
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