Matterhorn North Face 3-day guided climb
Join certified guide, Enrico, to the top of the Matterhorn via the challenging North Face. Receive expert guidance to ensure your safety and increase your summit success rate.
Private
Alps
3 Days
Apr - Jul, Sep - Nov
Very high
Advanced
Highlights
- Climb the challenging North face of the Matterhorn.
- Join a certified mountain guide that will ensure your preparation and safety.
- Discover the stunning mountain views of the Alps from the top of the Matterhorn.
Description
Join me on the ascent of the Matterhorn via its North Face, one of the most challenging mountaineering adventures in the Alps!
The Matterhorn lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Also known as Monte Cervino, it is one of the most famous mountains in the Alps. This is due to its spectacular pyramidal shape. It is 4,478 meters high and it is the 5th highest summit of the Alps.
The North Face of Matterhorn consists of a 1,200-meter wall. It can only be
climbed by very specific conditions when the humid snow, smashed by the
wind against the face, sticks to the steep wall and keeps all the loose rock
together, also making progression much faster. On this program, we will tackle it together and descend through the north-eastern ridge (the Hörnli Ridge). Additionally, we will pass by the Solvay hut where we will spend our second night, just after reaching the summit.
For safety reasons, if you are interested to come with me, we will need to
meet each other beforehand and climb together. This will allow me to assess
your mountaineering experience, and you to trust me on the mountains.
Keep in mind that the North Faces of the Alps 4-day training program is
mandatory for climbing together the big faces of the Alps and it’s not included in the price. We might climb routes such as Aiguille Verte, Supercouloir du Tacul, or some gullies on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi, etc. On this, you will be challenged on everything you need to know to climb the Matterhorn safely and successfully!
If I had to sum up the main reasons why I like climbing the North Face of Matterhorn, I’d probably say:
It is one of the longest faces in the Alps;
It has a very long history and it is considered one of the most mythical routes in the Alps. You can read many stories about mountaineers who have climbed it;
I find the climbing line very elegant and logical. A beautiful ascent on a huge face;
I enjoy technical routes very much. Therefore, I like bringing my friends and clients and showing them the way.
Please send me a request if you are interested in climbing the North Face of Matterhorn. I’ll be glad to guide you there and allow you to live a unique mountaineering experience!
We can also go for other technical ascents like the North Face of Eiger or the ascent of Les Grandes Jorasses. If you’d like to know more about the great north faces of the Alps, check out this article!
Price includes
- Guiding fee
Price details
- The price does NOT include lodging, meals, and/or transportation for both clients and the guide. We can provide lodging at B&B Maison de la montagne (http://www.maisondelamontagne.net/) when based down the valley.
Itinerary
Day 1: From Zermatt to the Hornli hut
We will hike from Zermatt to the Hornli mountain hut where we will spend our first night.
Day 2: North Face ascent
We will climb Matterhorn North Face and stay at the Solvay hut on our way down.
Day 3: Back to the valley
On the 3rd day, we will climb down and hike till Zermatt where we will celebrate our adventure!
Details
More info
According to the new directives of the Aosta Valley Regional College, insurance for recovery in the event of an accident is in charge of the customer and can be purchased by registering with the ITALIAN ALPINE CLUB (or corresponding local alpine club) or on the UVGAM website (https://pos.larcasrl.it/default.aspx?IDCON=926 ).
Meeting point
FAQs
Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment?
I'll provide the common climbing equipment, such as the rope and the protections. You'll need to bring your personal climbing gear. In case you can't bring part of it because you'll travel from far aware, I'll take care of renting it for you, making sure you get the best quality gear. In any case, you'll need to bring your own mountaineering boots.
What happens in the event of bad weather?
Having optimal conditions to climb Matterhorn’s North Face is challenging. Remaining flexible is key!
If the conditions are not good enough to climb it, we'll do something else, either in the area of Matterhorn, or somewhere else (in the Monte Rosa, Eiger, or Mont Blanc ranges for example). We'll be closely in touch together the weeks before the climb to discuss the conditions and the plan. The price will be adapted based on the final tour we'll do.
How do I know if I have the right level and experience to climb the north face of Eiger?
Any climber wanting to climb the North Face of Matterhorn will first join me on a 4-day private training (details here https://www.explore-share.com/trip/north-faces-of-the-alps-training/) which will allow me to assess your experience and your ability to go for this big challenge.
During these 4 days, we will go over situations that we should face during the ascent of Matterhorn via its north face.
These 4 days will also allow us to get to know each other, which is an important success factor in any challenging mountaineering project.
This 4-day tour should take place between December and May in order to have winter conditions.
Where will we meet?
We usually meet in Zermatt.
What is the best time of the year to climb the North Face of Matterhorn?
The best time is from late spring to early autumn. This face needs very particular conditions to form, and it is not climbable every year.
What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb the North Face of Matterhorn?
Climbing the north face of Matterhorn is extremely challenging and requires a large amount of experience, as well as very good endurance and stamina.
You need to have the skills to do M5/M5+ mix climbing. You need to be able to climb for 15 hours in a row.
Having experience in the following mountains would be a great plus:
- Super couloir of Mt Blanc du Tacul
- North face of Aiguille Verte
- The Kuffner ridge
- Some of the major lines on Ben Nevis
- Climbs in Alaska
In order to attempt the North Face of Matterhorn, all climbers must participate in my four-day private training/assessment session with me (more information available at https://www.explore-share.com/trip/north-faces-of-the-alps-training/). This training serves as an assessment of your experience and capabilities, ensuring your readiness for this significant undertaking.
How will lodging be managed during the climb?
Generally speaking, we would meet in Zermatt on day 1 and climb up to the Hornli hut. On day 2, we would climb the face-up and down back to the hut. On day 3, we would go back down the valley. In some cases, we shall need to split in two the way back and make a bivy on the way down.
Are you offering other north face climbs in the Alps?
Climbing north faces is my expertise. I offer other climbs in the Alps such as the Eiger North Face (more info here https://www.explore-share.com/trip/eiger-north-face-guide-climb-2/), and Les Grandes Jorasses North Face (more info here https://www.explore-share.com/trip/grandes-jorasses-north-face-guided-climb/).
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
About the guide
Enrico
4.9
(22)
Mountain Guide
My biggest satisfaction is to explore new places, and share it with a rope-mate. And to do it as a professional is the realization of a dream. At the age of 15, I knew I wanted to become a mountain guide, I wanted to live in the mountains, teach and share my new passion. In 2006 I realized my dream and I became a professional mountain guide. I like sharing my knowledge and experience with my clients, taking a journey that transforms slowly the guide-client relationship in climbing partner and often in friendship. I am not and never will be a lone climber but "a company" 'explorer. My specialty lies certainly in climbing on ice and mixed in the high mountains. With my clients I climbed the most difficult faces in the Alps, explored mountain ranges, traveled between America, Asia, Africa, and Europe.
Languages
Italian | French | English
Certificates
IFMGA
What people are saying about this trip
Matthew
I've now been on multiple adventures with Enrico, from him first teaching me the ways of ice climbing in Feb 2017 to us summiting the Matterhorn via the Lion's Ridge in Sep 2019, with many other climbs in between. He's amazing at his craft, teaching you everything you need to know whilst also having a good laugh. He's the guide I'll always choose for an adventure in the mountains and I'm always ready to recommend him to any friends at any skill level.
Pawel
Here is the summary of my experience with Explore-share and Enrico: Explore-share was one of several companies I considered before my trip to the Alps. I was very happy with my choice from the moment I sent my first email. The staff members responded promptly and answered all of my questions very clearly and kindly. I was blown away with the professionalism they have demonstrated. Two days after sending my first email I was in contact with my guide, Enrico. With Enrico we climbed different routes in the area of Mt. Blanc and practiced different techniques for about ten days. Enrico was an excellent guide. He was patient, thoughtful, and improved my skills tremendously. He was very thorough and safety conscious. After ten days of climbing I felt a lot of trust between the two of us, which I believe makes us a good team for future climbing adventures. I would highly recommend Explore-share and Enrico to anyone who is planning to explore the beauty of the Alps and take the challenge of climbing these magnificent mountains. During my trip I met Italian, French, Swiss and German guides. All of them were extremely enthusiastic and nice. Going to Europe for climbing? Choose European professionals. You will not be disappointed.
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