Climb Matterhorn via an integral route connecting Italy to Switzerland. A 2-day expedition led by IFMGA-certified guide Indio.
Alps
2 Days
Jun, Jul
High
Intermediate
How can it be possible to ascend a mountain from one country and when descending, be in another one? The answer is simple: climbing the Matterhorn via its Italian-Swiss integral route!
Matterhorn is an emblematic mountain of the Alps. With an interesting history behind and a powerful pyramid shape, it is a unique peak that every mountaineer wants to try at least once in life.
There are two normal routes to touch the summit of Matterhorn. One begins on the Italian side and is the Leone Route. Its starting point is in Cervinia, passing through the Carrel Hut (3829 m) until reaching the summit. The other route is on the Swiss side and starts in Zermatt. It is called the Hornli Route.
My idea is to go up via an integral route that starts on the Italian side towards the summit and descends along the Hornli ridge. Although it is a much more demanding choice, it is an uncrowded route ideal to fully enjoy the journey and its landscapes.
Anyway, any of these routes can be our plan b if weather does not help or if the mountain conditions are not good. In that case, we’ll go up and down by the same way.
To join this 2-day expedition you must have a prior acclimatization, which is not included. Read more details of the itinerary at the bottom of this page.
Please send your request to book if you want to climb Matterhorn via this Italian-Swiss amazing route. I’ll be waiting for your contact!
We will leave from Cervinia towards the Orionde Hut, where we will leave the car and begin our approach trekking. A not very difficult climb will take us to the Carrel refuge where we will spend the night. It will be a 5-hour hiking day.
Early in the morning we will begin a demanding ascent to the summit. We will cross the Lione Ridge that is equipped with ropes that facilitate our climb. If we are lucky and the weather conditions help we will reach the summit and after enjoying its magical views we will go down the Hornli Crest, on the Swiss side. The round trip takes around 12 hours.
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
4.9
(21)
Mountain Guide
I am an IFMGA and a High Mountain AAGM certified Mountain Guide. I was born in San Juan, where I found my passion for the mountains when I was a child. Today my home is El Chalten, this magical place where I have my family and where I work and live since 2008.
I have climbed many different peaks along the Andes, as well as in Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, France, Spain, Germany Italy, Austria and Switzerland. I have climbed great mountains and new routes in Patagonia, both in Cerro Torre and in the Fitz Roy mountains. I climbed Mount Fitz Roy five times and Mount Torre three times. All of them through different routes and some of them opening a new one.
One of my biggest achievements was the Standhardt - Herron - Egger traverse and the "Directa Huarpe" new route, on the west face of Cerro Torre. As well as climbing the Tehuelche route on the Fitz Roy hill in 16 hours.
I also guide in the Central Andes, in places such as Cerro Mercedario and Vallecitos in Mendoza, among other mountains. I am also a Mountaineering and Climbing instructor in different associations and member of the relief committee at the Club Andino Mercedario of the San Juan Province. I am also a member of the technical committee of the Argentine Association of Mountain Guides, in which I am part of the staff of instructors for IFMGA guides.
I guide my clients mainly in Patagonia. I spend summer in the town of El Chalten and I move to Bariloche, in northern Patagonia, in the winter, where I guide more technical excursions, like ice and/or rock climbing, as well as classic mountaineering ascents. During the year I also guide in the mountains of Peru, Bolivia and in Europe.
Even when I’m not working I enjoy climbing, bouldering, sport skiing and mountaineering. Keeping at my highest level of performance helps me ensure my clients’ safety, that is always my top priority.
Languages
English
Certificates
AAGM | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA
Diogo
Due to bad weather, we had to move the day of the climb, and instead of Indio, Pipa took me to the walls across the river in the Paredon de Los Condores. We had a great day of climbing; Pipa was super chilled and knowledgeable, sharing a lot of helpful tips and guiding me up the wall. We started with easy climbs and kept progressing until maxing it out. I had a lot of fun and I'm looking forward to doing other climbs with Pipa whenever I get a chance to visit Chalten again. Highly recommend.
Sunny
Had a great time!
Charles
(Not Indio) Juan was a very kind and knowledgeable guide. He knew exactly where to take us for warmups and hard climbing routes. His professionalism and attention to detail was clear on the multi pitch route we did - we felt safe and in control the entire time. Juan was also fun and we ended up with tons of local recommendations for things to do for the remainder of our trip. Thank you Patagonia Ascents. Communication was good, attention to detail was great.
Indio was a fun and skillful guide! My friend and I did multi and single pitch with him and felt very safe. We felt like we were climbing with a friend and learned along the way! We will be back, maybe next time mountaineering with Indio!
If you think of organising a trip to the "6miles" in Catamarca, I am in! Thanks for your guiding tour around "El Chalten"!
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