Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak Climbing Expedition

Join snow leopard and IFMGA guide, Grigory, on an amazing Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak climb in Kyrgyzstan. Put your mountaineering skills to the test on a unique high mountain experience!

Group

Pamir, Tian Shan

37 Days

Jul, Aug

Very high

Advanced

Highlights

Enjoy a unique high mountain expedition in Kyrgyzstan.
Climb Lenin Peak and Khan Tengri.
Spend a month in the Tian Shan and Pamir mountains.

Description

Would you like to climb some of the most amazing mountains in Kyrgyzstan? Then you can’t miss this unique Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak climbing expedition.

At 7,134 m (23,406 ft), Lenin Peak is one of the stars of the Pamir Mountains. It is not a technically difficult mountain to climb, however, due to its altitude, it is still a daunting challenge. It is also our first summit objective. Our second summit objective is Khan Tengri, at an altitude of 7,010 m (22,999 ft) in the Tian Shan Range. Although it is not as high as Lenin, Khan Tengri is a challenging mountaineering objective and requires prior mountain climbing experience and knowledge.

This program takes place over 37 days and aims at summiting both these peaks. To reach them, proper acclimatization will be key. Also, you will need to be extremely fit and be a seasoned mountaineer. You can find a detailed itinerary below, and ask any questions you may have about your qualifications in doubt.

This is a unique mountaineering opportunity in a remote location. Don’t miss out on the chance to climb Khan Tengri and Lenin Peak!

Would you like to learn more about this adventure? Then contact me today and I will be able to give you all the info. you need to start planning!

Price includes

Accommodation included
Guiding fee
Tents
Cooking utensils
Hot shower

Price details

LENIN PEAK, PRICE INCLUDED:
 Accommodation in Osh – 2 nights in a local hotel with breakfast. Double room
accommodation.
 Accommodation in mountains. Single accommodation in Base Camp (in tents). Or
you can choose shared room in a hut. In High Camps accommodation in double tents.
 In Base Camp: Café – dining room, WC, storage, hot shower, electricity.
 Meals – full board in mountains. Breakfast in hotel.
 Cooking set (1 per tent). Gas for stoves.
 Guide services 1 guide for 3 climbers.
 First aid and medical consultation.
LENIN PEAK, PRICE NOT INCLUDED
 Kyrgyz visa.
 Horses to Camp 1.
 Porters to High Camps (personal gear transportation within Camp 1 Camp 2 -Camp
3 and back way).
 Beverages and meals not included in main menu.
 All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical
expenses/insurance, etc.).
 Single hotel accommodation
 All changes of main itinerary and extra services.
KHANTENGRI: THE PRICE INCLUDES
 Accommodation in Bishkek – 2 nights in a hotel with breakfast. Accommodation in a
double room.
 Accommodation in camps and in the mountains in double tents.
 Mealsfull board in the mountains. Breakfast at the hotel.
 Cooking kit (1 per tent). Gas for the stove.
 Guides (1 guide for 3 participants).
 First aid and medical advice.
KHANTENGRI: THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDED
 Overweight with a helicopter (more than 30 kg)
 Porters
 Drinks and dishes not included in the main menu.
 All personal expenses (payment for additional baggage, excursions).
 Medical and transport insurance.
 Single accommodation in a hotel.
 All changes to the main route and additional services.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arriving to Osh, accommodation at a local hotel.

Day 2: Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Pamir” (3600 m). Accommodation in BC “Pamir”.

Day 3: Acclimatization climb to Petrovsky peak ridge.

Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until
we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, you will see a breathtaking
view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take
some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.

Day 4: Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an
additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you
take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin
glacier to Camp 1. The total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a
moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Day 5: Acclimatization climb to 4700m.

Acclimatization climb to the viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at
Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Day 6: Climbing the Yukhin peak 5100 m.

Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any
special equipment. Overnight in the setup camp on the top of Yukhin peak. Night in tents. Self-cooking.

Day 7: Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self-cooking.

Day 8: Rest day.

Day 9: Climb to Camp 2 (5300 m).

From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet
snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part of the route goes to an ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to
cross the plateau and get to the 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

Day 10: Accent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

We have some breakfast and start climbing in roped team with crampons on. Our goal
is to reach the steep slopes of Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spacious
dome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to Camp3. After lunch, we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Day 11: Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).

Early in the morning we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with
crampons on and in the roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, we go down to the Base
camp and have our dinner at the base camp.

Day 12 to 13: Rest Days. Prepare for the ascent.

Day 14: Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).

You should be climbing with less effort and much faster with proper acclimatization. We
have dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Day 15: Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).

Camp 1 – Camp2. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

Day 16: Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).

Camp 2-Camp 3. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Prepare for the summit.

Day 17: Summit day. Climbing to Lenin Peak 7134 m. and descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).

We have to leave Camp 3 before sunrise. We walk in roped team with crampons on. Go
down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the ridge of Lenin Peak. We will cross steep
(45 degrees) icy slope called a “knife” and pass between the rocks. The route crosses
the “plateau of skydivers” and goes to the rocks. There are no obvious directions and it

is easy to get lost in white out conditions. On the very top of the peak you will find a
small Lenin sculpture.
There is one important safety rule: 2 PM is a turning point! If you have not reached the
summit by this time, you must immediately start descending to Camp3!
Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Self-cooking.

Day 18: Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).

Early in the morning, we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk in roped
team with crampons on and have our lunch at Camp 1. Rest (cooking service included).

Day 19: Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).

Descent to Base Camp. You can hire a horse to carry your gear (extra charge).
Сelebration in Base Camp.

Day 20 to 21: Reserve days.

Day 22: Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation.

After breakfast, we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the
hotel in Osh.

Day 23: Departure to Bishkek

Overnight at a hotel.

Day 24: Transfer to Issyk-Kul

Transfer to the Tamga village on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. Overnight in a hotel on
the shore of Lake Issyk-kul.

Day 25: Transfer to Karkara

Transfer to Karkara camp. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.

Day 26: Flight to Base Camp

Breakfast. Helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek Base Camp at an altitude of 4000
meters. Accommodation in tents. Supper.

Day 27: Preparing for the climb.

Preparation and check of equipment, a walk on the glacier before the start of the ascent to Camp 1.

Day 28: Ascent to Camp 1.

Breakfast, then, ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4500 meters. Setting up camp, dinner,
overnight in tents.

Day 29: Ascent to Camp 2

Early ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The route follows a snowy ridge with sections of rocks, sometimes vertical. One of the most difficult days on the ascent.

Day 30: Ascent Chapaeva Peak

Ascent to the Chapaev Peak 6100 m. and descent to the Saddle to Camp 3. (5900 m.)
Overnight in tents.

Day 31: Khan Tengri summit.

Summit day. Early start. 2 pm is a turning point – you
must reach the summit or start your descent to get down before dark.

Day 32: Reserve day

Day 33: Descent to the Base Camp

Day 34: Helicopter flight

Departure to Karkara Camp.

Day 35: Transfer to Bishkek

Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight at the hotel. Dinner at the restaurant.

Day 36: Reserve Day.

Day 37: Flight home.

Equipment you will need to bring

Down jacket with a hood, large enough to put on over a fleece jacket Warm fleece / Softshell Long sleeve warm thermal underwear shirt Long sleeve underwear shirt (Light/medium) Waterproof and breathable jacket with hood (Gore-Tex is strongly recommended) T-shirts Fleece or Softshell pants (with full side zips to allow ventilation) Two pairs of long underwear pants (one light and one medium-warm) Waterproof and breathable pants (or bib pants) with full side zips for easy putting on and taking off Trekking pants Shorts Socks2-3 pairs 3 pairs of thermal socks (medium-heavy thickness) Hat with a brim (best option) or bandana or cap Climbing (double or triple) high-altitude expedition boots Lightweight trekking boots Sandals for Osh and Base camp 2 pairs Softshell gloves High-altitude warm mittens Thick hat (Softshell or fleece) Warm Balaclava or Buff (face protection) Glacier glasses Ski mask (4+ level) Extra pair of your ordinary glasses (if you wear them) Down or hollow fiber filled sleeping bag good for -15-20 degrees Celsius Sleeping pad, either a Therm-a-Rest or a closed-cell foam pad Headlamp with extra 2 sets of batteries Water bottle 1 liter (with insulators) Thermos 1 liter Backpack 60-80 liters Additional: one day pack 40-50 liters (should be big enough to hold two liters’ thermos, a snack, extra clothing, and a camera for the summit day) – or you can use big one. Ice ax 60-70 cm Telescopic ski poles Crampons (well-fitting, preferably “step-in”) Gaiters Harness Leash with 2 rope ends (Y-form) 3 Binners Belay (rappel) device Fixed rope ascender (joumar) Helmet (Attention! During transporting in luggage helmet may be damaged, we recommend you to carry it in hand baggage) Sunscreen (SPF 50+) Your specific first aid kit Lip balm (SPF 25+) Favorite lightweight snacks, vitamins, isotonic Personal mug, spoon, plate. Additional: personal jet-boil or stove and pot (if you prefer to have your own)

About the guide

Grigory

5.0

(3)

Mountain Guide

Grigory is a passionate and experienced KMGA/IFMGA/UIAGM guide with plenty of mountaineering under his belt. He has a Russian sports master which he acquired in 2006, he was the 2007 Moscow Mountaineering Champion and has guided since 2008 in Nepal, the Caucasus, Tien Shen range, Alps, and more. He is also a Certified Alpine Ski instructor since 2014 and has an Avalanche Rescue certificate from the Russian Association of Mountain Guides.

Languages

Russian | English

Certificates

KMGA | IFMGA

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What people are saying about Grigory

Umesh

Excellent trip well planned with superb guides Have already recommended to friends who want to climb Elbrus

Matt

I climbed with Anton and Maksim; both really great guys. The trip was fully private with just myself climbing. This was a very fast trip beginning in Terskol; not the huts/barrels. Maksim and I climbed up the barrels from Terskol where we met Anton. Anton and I rested about 6 hours until midnight then made a single push to the summit and back down to barrels. The entire round trip was about 23 hours. The weather was cold, snowing/sleet, lots of wind and little to no visibility. We made good time in challenging conditions. Planning and coordination of the trip was smooth and easy. Great job and great company all the way around. Thanks!