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Khan Tengri Climb, Tian Shan Range

Khan Tengri Climb, Tian Shan Range
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On this unforgettable Khan Tengri climb in the Tian-Shan range in Kyrgyzstan you will enjoy a true and remote mountain climbing experience at the lead of IFMGA guide, Grigory, a mountaineering expert who knows the region like the palm of his hand.

Group

Tian Shan

21 Days

Jul, Aug

High

Intermediate


Highlights

  • Climb Khan Tengri, a gorgeous 7 thousander in the Tian Shan range.
  • Join a top IFMGA guide to the top of a great mountaineering challenge.
  • Experience the remote and wild mountaineering environment of Kyrgyzstan.

Description

On this Khan Tengri climb, you will have the chance to reach the summit of a spectacular 7,010 m (23,000 ft) mountain in the Tian Shan range in Kyrgyzstan. This mountaineering challenge will be a severe test of both high-altitude and technical skills. You will enjoy maximum safety under the guidance of an experienced guide in a small group!

In order to join, you will require good physical fitness, endurance, and determination, as well as appropriate equipment, and proper acclimatization.  You will need to have prior mountaineering experience having climbed mountains of 5000m or more.

During the climb, we will take adequate measures to properly acclimatize. Furthermore, we will refresh and train the necessary technical skills we need to reach the summit.  Overnight on the shores of the gorgeous Issyk Kul, helicopter rides, glacier trekking, and traversing beautiful snowy and rocky ridges will make the experience unforgettable. You can find a detailed itinerary below.

If you would like to join this unforgettable Khan Tengri climb, then contact me today and we can start planning for a great adventure!

Price includes

  • Accommodation included
  • Guiding fee
  • Breakfast
  • Dinner
  • Transport during the trip
  • Permit and entrance fees
  • Mountain guide expenses
  • Helicopter drops as described

Price details

  • KHANTENGRI: THE PRICE INCLUDES
  • • Accommodation in Bishkek – 2 nights in a hotel with breakfast. Accommodation in a double room.
  • • Accommodation in camps and in the mountains in double tents.
  • • Mealsfull board in the mountains. Breakfast at the hotel.
  • • Cooking kit (1 per tent). Gas for the stove.
  • • Guides (1 guide for 2 participants).
  • • First aid and medical advice.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

Arrival at Bishkek
Overnight at a hotel.

Day 2: Transfer to Issyk-Kul

Transfer to the Tamga village on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul. Overnight in a hotel on the shore of Lake Issyk-Kul.

Day 3: Karkara

Transfer to Karkara camp. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.

Day 4: Flight to Base Camp

Breakfast. Helicopter flight to the Northern Inylchek Base Camp at an altitude of 4000 meters. Accommodation in tents. Supper.

Day 5: Preparation for the climb

Preparation and equipment check, a walk on the glacier before the start of the ascent to Camp 1.

Day 6: Ascent to Camp 1

Breakfast, ascent to Camp 1 at an altitude of 4500 meters. Setting up camp, dinner, overnight in tents.

Day 7: Ascent to Camp 2

Early ascent to Camp 2 at an altitude of 5600 meters. The route follows a snowy ridge with sections of rocks, sometimes vertical. One of the most difficult days on the ascent. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.

Day 8: Acclimatization climb to 5900m

Acclimatization climb up to 5900m and descent to Camp 2. Lunch. Accommodation in tents.

Day 9: Descent to Base camp

Day 10 to 12: Rest days in Base Camp

Rest and preparation days.

Day 13: Ascent to Camp 1

Day 14: Ascent to Camp 2

Day 15: Ascent Chapaeva Peak

Ascent to the Chapaev Peak 6100 m. and descent to the Saddle to Camp 3. (5900 m.) Overnight in tents.

Day 16: Khan Tengri summit day

Summit day. Early start at 2-3 o’clock in the morning. 14.00- is a turning point – you must reach the summit or start your descent to get back down before dark.

Day 17: Reserve day

Day 18: Descent to the Base Camp

Day 19: Departure to Karkara Camp

Day 20: Helicopter flight Transfer to Bishkek

Day 21: Reserve day

Transfer to Bishkek. Overnight at the hotel. Dinner at the restaurant.

Day 22: Flight home

 

Equipment you will need to bring

Crampons

Ice axe

Harness

Water bottle

Backpack

Helmet

Poles

Sunglasses

Goggles

Belay device

Pulley


About the guide

Guide profile image

Grigory

5.0

(3)

Mountain Guide

Grigory is a passionate and experienced KMGA/IFMGA/UIAGM guide with plenty of mountaineering under his belt. He has a Russian sports master which he acquired in 2006, he was the 2007 Moscow Mountaineering Champion and has guided since 2008 in Nepal, the Caucasus, Tien Shen range, Alps, and more. He is also a Certified Alpine Ski instructor since 2014 and has an Avalanche Rescue certificate from the Russian Association of Mountain Guides.

Languages

Russian | English

Certificates

KMGA | IFMGA

Request more information

What people are saying about Grigory

Umesh

Excellent trip well planned with superb guides Have already recommended to friends who want to climb Elbrus

Matt

I climbed with Anton and Maksim; both really great guys. The trip was fully private with just myself climbing. This was a very fast trip beginning in Terskol; not the huts/barrels. Maksim and I climbed up the barrels from Terskol where we met Anton. Anton and I rested about 6 hours until midnight then made a single push to the summit and back down to barrels. The entire round trip was about 23 hours. The weather was cold, snowing/sleet, lots of wind and little to no visibility. We made good time in challenging conditions. Planning and coordination of the trip was smooth and easy. Great job and great company all the way around. Thanks!

Umesh

Excellent trip well planned with superb guides Have already recommended to friends who want to climb Elbrus


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