Edwin, an IFMGA certified guide, wishes to take you to the summit of Huascaran. Follow him to the top of this magnificent peak in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, and get the most dazzling views of the area.
Group
Andes, Cordillera Blanca
7 Days
Aug
High
Intermediate
Located in the Cordillera Blanca, in the heart of the province of Yungay, the Huascaran massif is home of two distinct summits. Huascaran Norte stands at 6,654 metres. And Huascaran Sur rises at 6,768 metres. With a difference of approximately 100 meters, and a saddle in the middle, also known as Garganta, that separates them.
We will spend 7 days exploring this magnificent massif, climbing to the summit of Huascaran Sur. And, once we get to the top, we’ll get the best views of the Cordillera Blanca.
The itinerary I propose, follows the normal route to the Huascaran Sur, via the Garganta and the Northwest face. It is rated PD due to its difficulty level. Also, this route passes by the Gargata icefall leading to Camp 2 (5,900m). Then, we’ll tackle the West face rated D+. And, we’ll encounter several lines of higher difficulty levels (TD and ED) at the Northeast and East Face of the Huascaran Sur.
Therefore, participants must have some previous experience, and a good fitness level. I also highly recommend to arrive days in advance to acclimatize.
So, if you are up for this mountaineering adventure, send me a request. It will be my pleasure to guide you to the top of Peru’s tallest peak, and share with you my favorite spots on this ascent.
Please note this is a group trip, but there’s the option of a private program. If you are interested on a private trip just mention it in the message. Or perhaps you’d be interested in this Alpamayo Trek in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca.
We’ll start the day early. After breakfast, around 7:00 am, we’ll head towards Mancos, passing Callejon de Huaylas. Then, after 1 hour of driving, we’ll arrive at Musho, where the porters will be waiting. Thereupon, we’ll start hiking towards Base Camp, where we’ll camp for the night.
After breakfast we’ll hike up to Moraine Camp. We might do some rock climbing to reach the glacier. Then, we will climb to the Camp 1 where we’ll spend the night.
At 4:00am we’ll begin our ascent to Camp 2. And we’ll camp there for the night.
The day will start early at 3:00 am, so we get to see the sunrise in the Cordillera Blanca. Then, around 10:00 am we’ll finally reach the Summit. After taking in the views, we’ll head back through the same route to Camp 2.
We will start early again, and head to Base Camp, to camp there for the night.
This day is important in case we need to postpone a day because of weather conditions, or we use it as a rest day.
Finally, on our last day of adventure, we’ll head back to Musho after breakfast. There, a private transport will take us to Huaraz.
Mountain Guide
My name is Edwin, professional Mountain Guide, member of Mountain Guides Association of Peru (AGMP) and Member of the International Union of Mountain Guides Association (UIAGM), specialized on Trekking, Climbing, Expeditions also I am the founder of Andes Travel Expeditions company.
I have extensive experience and I had climb throughout Peru, Argentina and Bolivia and succesfully guided Huandoy Norte ( 2 times: on the north face and east face), Piramide de Garcilaso, Arteson, Caraz 1, Alpamayo, Huascaran, as well as Illampu, Sajama, Condiriri, Aconcagua, among many other mountains..
I will be happy to welcome you and your friends from all over the world to travel with us in America del Sur particularly in my home country Peru, the country of Mt Huascaran, Alpamayo(Most beautiful mountain in the world), Machupicchu, Cusco, Lago Titicaca, Arequipa, Amazonas etc.
As a professional mountain guide, I have been leading several mountain trips for the, past 20 years. I love and enjoy my job and have gained a lot of experience through climbing with many groups from all over the world. First I would like to assure you the best service and cooperation from my team, Secondly I will make sure that you have an exciting trekking on mountain, wonderful, unique and memorable experience. And while you are here in Peru we would like to promise, you are going to have an enjoyable and comfortable stay with us and look forward to meet your expectation Andes Travel Expeditions Company is pleased to share your enthusiasm for lifetime experience. I am pleased to let you know that I am going to be your Guide up there personally I will take you there not to send you there.
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