Join Beto, an IFMGA certified guide on this climbing trip in Peru! Huascaran is the tallest summit in Peru, and beholds great adventures.
Group
Cordillera Blanca
7 Days
Mar - Nov
Very high
Advanced
Have you always wanted to hike the highest mountain in Peru? Then come join me on this 1-week guided ascent to Huascaran (6,768 meters)!
Huascaran is located in the west of Peru, and its south summit is also the highest point in the country. More still, its south summit is the second-highest point in the world with the lowest gravitational pull, and you will have the opportunity to see for yourself on this week-long trip.
We will begin this trip by meeting up with the group in Huaraz and transporting everyone to the trail-head and hike for approximately 5 hours that day. The following 6 days will vary from day to day in terms of difficulty, but each day will remain adventurous. As we hike over glaciers, climb rugged granite cliffs, and complete our summit in the earliest hours of the morning, you will be delighted by what’s in store.
This trip is of an extremely high level of difficulty, and so I ask that only acclimatized and experienced climbers sign up.
Request to book this trip if you have always wanted to summit the highest mountain in Peru! And if you are interested in other guided ascents in Peru, check out my 3-day guided ascent of Cordillera Blanca or my 3-day guided ascent of Nevado Ishnica.
In the morning, we will transport you from Huaraz to Musho. From there, we will meet up with the rest of the group, load the shuttle and begin our hike to base camp of Huascarán. (Hiking time approx. 5 hours).
After breakfast we will make our way towards our next **campsite.**We will then navigate a small rock wall of 5meters as our guides use rope to secure the area. Then, we will hike for about onehouruntil we reach the route that leads to the refuge of Huascaran. Then, we’ll walk about 1 kilometermore to the Moraine Camp, where we will rest and have dinner. Optional hike to the glacier and back to camp. (Hiking timeapprox. 4hours)
We will endure a short rock scramble (no ropes needed) to an expanse of open rock slabs.
We will climb through theGarganta Icefall to the Col between Huascarán North and South summits. This is the main event of the climb. Once at the top, we will set up our highcamp, have dinner and restfor the evening. (Hiking time is approx. 4 hours)
We will leave at 1:00am for the summit ascent, which shouldtake approximately 8 hours, and approximately 3-4 hours back down to Camp 1. We will have dinner and rest at camp.
After eating breakfast we will pack up and head down to Base Camp, which will take **approximately 2-3 hours.**That night we will enjoy our final dinner and rest at camp.
We will enjoy our final breakfast at camp, pack up all our gear one final time, anddescend back down to Musho where we’ll be met by our transportation for ourreturn back to Huaraz.
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Mountain Guide
Beto Pinto was born to climb giant mountains. Raised in a tiny hamlet in the Shacsha valley outside of Huaraz, he often dreamt of climbing the high peaks which surrounded his countryside home. His first steps he was off trekking and exploring on his own - through remote valleys and high Andean lakes. By age 12, he became the youngest to summit Mt. Vallunaraju (5686m). He next summited Nevado Chopicalqui (6354) at age 14, and by age 15, he stood on top of Nevado Huascaran - the summit he always dreamt of and the highest mountain in Peru. Beto remains the youngest Peruvian to have summited Huascaran.
Beto is licensed as a UIAGM /IFMGA /AGMP Guide, and has WFR certification - this means he is recognized worldwide, and it’s the highest level of guide after 3 years of intensive study and training. He teaches mountain rescue courses to other local guides. He has organized and led the first Peruvian expeditions to the mountains of Ecuador and Bolivia, opening new routes and holding the record time to ascend Mexico’s highest volcano, Pico de Orizaba, in Bolivia Huayna Potosi. Within Peru, he has opened many new routes in various Cordilleras. He is published in The Alpinist, The American Alpine Journal, Desnivel , Barrabes , American Alpine Institute, etc
Languages
English
Certificates
AGMP
Lindsay
Beto was great, super knowledgeable about the mountains and made sure I got everything I needed!
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