Himalayas 5 Peaks Technical Climbing Course and Ama Dablam Ascent

Tshering always supervises and organizes the tours, however, he is not always the lead guide on the expedition. His team of local guides all have local certifications (NNMGA) and have summited Everest several times.

We organize our Ama Dablam expedition two times a year:

• In Autumn, around October 20th

• In Spring, around April 20th.

The goal of this mountaineering course & expedition with the ascent of these 5 peaks is to introduce people to climbing in the Himalayas. You must be able to walk daily for 6 to 8 hours, while carrying a light day pack. During several days of this tour, an extra effort will need to be provided (10 to 18 hours of hiking & climbing) to allow reaching the summit of the different peaks (Mera peak, Ama Dablam, etc.) of the list.

The following items are included in the price of this 35-day expedition:

• the transfers from/to the airport

• 4 nights (twin-sharing basis) in a bed & breakfast in Kathmandu and on the way to the start of the program and back.

• the transportation from Kathmandu to the start of the hike, and back

• accommodations (full-board) in lodges/tea houses during the expedition

• all peaks permit and administration fees

• the service & support of the local staff

• the mountain guiding service provided by local IFMGA/NNMGA certified mountain guides

• climbing equipment, tents, ropes, cooking stoves, etc.

The following items are not included in the price of this 35-day expedition:

• your personal climbing/mountaineering equipment.

• the visa fee to enter Nepal. It can be obtained at the airport upon arrival.

• your air travel expenses to and from Kathmandu.

• lunches and evening meals in Kathmandu.

• bonus tip for each climbing sherpa/guide (usually one per climber, but there could be 2 if you need) if camp 2 of Ama Dablam is reached (minimum USD 800 per climbing Sherpa). If you don’t manage to make it to Ama Dablam but climbed one of the other peaks of the program, the bonus tip would be USD 300.

• tips for all local support crews (USD 250)

• fixed rope team fee (around USD 250, the final price will depend on the number of climbers). This money goes to the government directly

• any costs there might be if you are leaving the tour earlier (whatever the reason)

• any costs there might be if you arrive back in Kathmandu earlier, for example, having climbed the peaks ahead of schedule.

• personal medical, travel, rescue and cancellations insurances. Make sure it covers emergency helicopter evacuation.

• personal spending, tips and sightseeing tours.

• Others: drinks, laundry, postage, telephone calls, emails and other items of a personal nature.

You may need to stop the expedition and get back to Kathmandu for different reasons: sickness, injury, any personal reason, natural disaster, etc.

We’ll make sure you get back to Kathmandu, and we’ll take care of driving you back to the airport.

Unfortunately, no refund we'll be given as all the parties involved in the planning of the expedition (staff, guides, logistics, etc.) will already be paid by that moment. We strongly recommend you to buy a cancellation insurance.

You’ll be with other climbers during this expedition. There will be a maximum of 9 other climbers with you (so 10 maximum).

For the summit days (e.g. Ama Dablam, Island, Lobuche, Mera Peak…), each climber will have his own guide. For the other days, there will be one guide for several climbers, based on the program and the required safety requirements.

The program is made on a twin sharing basis. If you wish, we can plan a single room basis for you. An extra fee will be asked for that.

You should book as soon as you can so that we can help you get ready. We’ll send you a preparation program once you book, making sure this experience is a success for you.

You need to take with you your crampons, harness, helmet, belay devices, and ice axe.

It’s possible to rent some technical gear such as crampons, helmet, ice axe, harness, down jacket etc. in Katmandu. We highly recommend you to bring your own mountaineering shoes and belay devises to avoid any issues. Please note that you may not find a wide variety of brands and prices.

We’ll pick you up at the airport of Kathmandu.

Here is the equipment that you need to have with you:

1/ TECHNICAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

• Climbing Helmet

• Harness (Appropriate for alpine rock, ice climbing and mountaineering)

• Ice Axe (semi technical 50-55 cm length)

• A pair of Crampons (semi-rigid system) with step in or four strap system appropriate for alpine ice climbing and general mountaineering), with Antibott

• A pair of Mountaineering boot for 7000 m (G2sm or similar)

• 2 sleeping bags -30 °C to -40 °C with inner liner

• 1 carry mat and 1 of Tharmorest air mat with pump sack.

• 3 m rope 8 mm

• 8 m prusik cord 6 mm

• One tap sling 120 cm

• One ascender device (Jumar) Petzl or Black Diamond

• One belay device (Riverso, Petzl or Guide, Black Diamond)

• 4 non screw gate carabiners

• 4 screw gate carabiners (HMS)

• 2 quickdraw (runner)

• 2 ice screws of different length and diameter, 10 to 22 cm

• 2 Duffel bags (1piece 80L and 1 Piece 120L)

• 2 Pieces of backpack for climbing design light weight and durable (1-piece 35L for the day and 1piece 55L for climbing)

2/ Equipment for the HEAD

• A fleece or woolen hat

• A shaded hat or cap

• 2 Balaclava neck warmers

• A pair of glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shield, a hard sided storage case and antifog.

• A pair of ski goggles with UV protection and antifog.

3/ Equipment for the HANDS

• 2 pair of liner gloves or thin wool gloves

• A pair of warm gloves fleece

• A pair of expedition shell gloves, with leather on it.

• A pair of down mitten Upper

4/ Equipment for the BODY

• 2 base-layers 4 season woolen thermal

• 2 t-shirts

• 2 high neck with long sleeve

• A fleece Jacket or soft shell

• A thermal warm jacket for the 3rd layer

• A waterproof Jacket with hood (good quality)

• A down jacket 700 Lower body wear

5/ UNDERWEAR

• 2 pairs of Nylon pants for trekking and climbing

• 2 pairs of thermal trousers

• A pair of Fleece warm pants

• A pair of Waterproof pants (good quality)

• A pair of Down pant

• 2 pairs liner socks

• 3 pairs of trekking socks

• 2 pairs of climbing and mountaineering thick socks

• A pair of trekking boots

• A pair of sandal or camp shoes

• Sun lotion, 118ml (SPF 30 to 50)

• Lip balm 4.8 g (SPF 30) with a cord or strap to hang on your neck

• Foot powder antibacterial 75g

• 2 head lamps (Petzl Tika-Zipka or Black Diamond)

• Enough lithium batteries AAA or AA size 1.5 volts

• 2 lighters of high performance in cold temperature and high altitude

• A diary book for personal memoranda

• A pen or pencil

• 2 water bottles of 1000ml wide mouth (Good quality)

• A pee bottle 1000ml wide mouth and collapsible

• A small stainless steel thermos (high quality)

• A pair of ski poles

• Your personal first aid kit

• A sewing kit

• A Swiss climbing knife

• A camera with enough battery and memory card

• A wash kit 1 piece of Wash bag with dry lightweight towel

The following 5 peaks will be climbed:

1/ Gokyo ri (5,357 m)

2/ Kalapathar (5,644 m)

3/ Lobuche (6,119 m)

4/ Chhukung ri (5,546 m)

5/ Island peak (6,165 m)

... and Ama Dablam (6,812 m)

Please note the itinerary is meant to provide an idea of what to expect during the Himalaya Five Peak technical climbing course including Ama Dablam climbing. It will be vital to have a flexible plan in place in order to take advantage of situations as they arise. Any itinerary alterations will be made to maximize the advantage to the team members and ensure their eventual success on the Himalaya Five Peaks.