Climbing Lenin Peak in Pamir
A 21-day expedition to climb Lenin Peak (7134 m) at the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan in Pamir, together with Andrey, KMGA mountain guide.
Tian Shan
21 Days
Jul, Aug
Description
A 21-day expedition to the Lenin Peak summit (7134 m), one of the highest mountains in the former Soviet Union, which is also one of the easiest +7000m peaks to climb.
Lenin Peak is a border mountain between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. It is one of the most popular peaks in the world and receives hundreds of climbers every year.
Most of them choose to climb it by the Kyrgyz side, as it offers easier access and easier routes. Therefore, ascents from the Tajik side are not very common.
This peak is also popular for the hospitality of the people who live in its surroundings. The green pastures and warm weather at base camp make a big difference among other similar places in this region.
Besides, many climbers get to experience camping with nomads and enjoying horse-back rides on the grasslands. In fact, the nomadic culture is still very much alive in Kyrgyzstan.
The route is straightforward and doesn’t present any technical difficulties. However, there is some avalanche danger! Some steep ridges and an easy glacier are some of the challenges it poses. But the most important concerns are high altitude and unpredictable weather.
You need to have some mountaineering experience and be in optimal physical condition to attempt this ascent.
At 7134 m, the summit offers stunning views of the Pamir Mountains and also allows you to see Mustag-Ata and Kongur in China. Further, you can find the Hindu Kush and to the west, the Karakoram. You will find a large number of plaques at the top, including one of Lenin himself.
Please get in touch with me if you want to climb Lenin Peak. We can then discuss all the details and plan this beautiful ascent together!
Price includes
- Accommodation included
- Guiding fee
- Breakfast
- Dinner
- Transport during the trip
- Transportation start and back
- Permit and entrance fees
- Flight to the start
Itinerary
Day 1: Bishkek
Arrival in Bishkek, transfer and accommodation in a hotel. Overnight in Bishkek.
Day 2: Osh / Achik / Tash / Base camp
Morning flight to Osh. Transfer Osh-Achik-Tash BC. Overnight in BC.
Day 3: Petrovskogo peak
Acclimatization ascent to Petrovskogo peak. Preparation for climbling to Camp 1.
Day 4: Camp 1 (4400 m)
Climb to the camp N 1. 4400 m.
Day 5: Domashniy peak (4700 m)
Acclimatization ascent to Domashniy peak (4700 m.). Preparation for climb to Camp 2.
Day 6: Camp 2 (5300 m)
Climb to the camp N 2. 5300 m.
Day 7: Camp 3 (6200 m)
Climb to the camp N3. 6200 m.
Day 8: Descent to the camp 1
Day 9: Descent to the base camp 3600 m.
Day 10: Reserve day.
Day 11: Rest day.
Day 12: Preparation day.
Day 13: Climb to camp 1.
Day 14: Climb to camp 2.
Day 15: Climb to camp 3.
Day 16: Ascent of the summit 7134 m. and descent to the camp 3.
Day 17: Descent to camp 1.
Day 18: Descent to base camp. 3600 m.
Day 19: Rest day.
Day 20: Osh
Transfer Achik-Tash BC to Osh. Accommodation and overnight in Osh in hotel.
Day 21: Bishkek
Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel.
Details
More info
This items are also included in the price:
- Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration
- Meeting/seeing off at the airport
- Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 1-2 USD)
- Lunch en route to/from BC
- Rent of walkie-talkie
- Registration with rescue team
- Ecological fee
Services in Base Camp “Achik-Tash” on 3600 m:
- Meals – full board
- Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower
- Medical aid in the base camp (professional doctor)
- Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!
Services in the camp 1 on 4400 m:
- Meals – full board
- Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent
- Medical aid in the base camp ( professional doctor)
- Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator
This items are not included in the price:
- The cost of Kyrgyz visa.
- International flight.
- All optional deviations from the main itinerary.
- Beverages and meals not included in main menu.
- All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.).
- The services of porters for ascending.
- The rent of group and personal mountaineering equipment for ascending.
List of Equipment:
- Sleeping bag - down or synthetics the temperature -18 - 25 ° C
- sleeping pad - better anything in the series ThermaRest
- crampons - better Grivel G12
- Backpack 90 liters - to climb
- Backpack 40-50 liters - for acclimatization.
- harness - better Petzl or Black Diamond with wide lower straps.
- Carabiners with clutch 3-4. Any large carabiner manufacturers Petzl, BD
- Jumar - Petzl under the right (left) arm
- Telescopic poles - better Black Diamond
- Thermos – better brand “Thermos” to 0.75 liters
- Rappel device - such as "reverse" or “figure eight”
- Ice Axe - Grivel or Petzl
- Head lamp - Petzl Tikka Plus
- Personal crockery for high camps - MSR makes good staff.
- High-altitude double boots - as an option Scarpa Vega, but the best La Sportiva Spantik or La Sportive Olimpus
- Down Jacket, light and warm
- Gore-tex jacket with a large hood
- Gore-tex trousers
- Windblock trousers
- Polartec-200 Jacket
- Warm underwear such as “smart wool” or “stoic”
- Down Mittens
- Windblock Gloves
- Warm wool (synthetic) socks - 2-3 pairs
- Balaclava
- Warm hat
- Sun glasses
- Googles
- Gaiters
- Avalanche shovel
- victorinox knife
- sun protection cream factor 50+
Meeting point
FAQs
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
About the guide
-Andrey
5.0
(11)
Mountain Guide
I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.
I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.
My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.
In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.
In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.
In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.
Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.
My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.
Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.
Languages
Russian | English
Certificates
KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA
What people are saying about this trip
Jashan
Despite not summiting, The Lenin Peak trip and the professionalism and abilities of Andrey far surpassed my best expectations. Andrey was responsible, knowledgeable, compassionate, and most of all a great person to spend 21 days with. Andrey displayed a high level of good judgement in regards to our decisions on the mountain and ensured the safety of everyone in our group at all times. I would not hesitate to use Andrey for any mountain adventure.
Katherine
Andrey is a great guide. He's patient, kind and puts your safety and quality of experience first. His technical skills and knowledge are really impressive. It was also just so much fun. Can't wait to do another trip again.
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