Climbing Dychtau with a guide

Arrival to Mineraly Vody airport. Transfer (6-7 hours) to Bezengi Valley via Nalchik, the capital city of the Kabardino-Balkar Republic in Russia. It is about 2,5hr drive in a regular service from Nalchik to Benzegi. Accommodation in Bezengi Camp (2,200m above the sea level).

Acclimatization hiking along Mizhyrgi glacier up to Uky hut (3,200m). Total time is 3,5 up/1,5 down. Return to the Bezengi Camp.

Training rock climbing near Camp, 5-6 pitches up and rappel down. Return to BC.

From the camp Bezengi walk along the Bezengi glacier and continue to Russian Bivouac (3,900m), 7-8 hours.

From Camp Bezengi, climb the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier to the Misses-Kosh hut (1-2 hours). Continue along the path on the left lateral moraine of the Bezengi Glacier and after 30 min turn left by a big stone with inscription on a stone “VZSPS» and cross vegetated slopes and scree couloir (stonefall). Ascend the right side of the fairly broad scree couloir. A rognon in the upper part of the couloir is turned on the left and one continues over scree into the right hand depression of the West Ridge of Misses-Tau. From the depression, cross over to the south side of the ridge and continue as far as the icefall of a hanging glacier, which descends from Noth Ridge of Dykh-Tau.

From the Russian Bivouac we continue up on the North ridge and go to bivouac “VCSPS” (47500m). Night in the tent.

We climb up to the summit of Dychtau and hike back to the bivouac. Night in the tent.