Climbing Ama Dablam in the Himalayas
Join IFMGA-certified guide Jyamchang on this incredible 31-day expedition to the summit of Ama Dablam in Nepal's Himalayas.
Himalaya
31 Days
Mar - May, Sep - Nov
Description
This 31-day program to the summit of Ama Dablam, in eastern Nepal, is a once in a lifetime expedition. I'll be happy to be your guide during this incredible journey to the top of one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalayas!
A team from New Zealand and the US first climbed Ama Dablam in 1961. We will follow the same route, via the south west ridge.
I was on Ama Dablam for the last time in March 2017. You'll read here the story about my adventure with Martin, a very friendly and strong Belgian mountaineer.
We will take 7 days to trek to Base Camp (4300m) via the Khumbu Valley. This hike will provide us with awesome views on Ama Dablam. You will also get the chance to experience the culture and hospitality of the Sherpa people.
Once at Base Camp, we will move the loads and equipment to Camp 1 (5300m), via a long path that will take us to the start of the south west ridge. The technical climbing starts from this point. The route follows the ridge leading directly to Camp 3 (6300m).
The route is quite exposed but not as steep as one would imagine. Therefore, climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt it.
Contact me if you dream of climbing Ama Dablam or any other peak in eastern Nepal. I will guide you there with much pleasure. I'm an IFMGA guide and you will feel and be 100% safe. I'll also enjoy sharing my knowledge about Nepal, its culture and my experience as a Nepalese mountain guide.
Price includes
- Accommodation included
- Guiding fee
- Breakfast
- Lunch
- Dinner
- Transport during the trip
- Transportation start and back
- Permit and entrance fees
- Porters
Itinerary
Day 1 to 2: Flight to Kathmandu
Day 3 to 4: Lukla - Monjo
Fly to Lukla. Walk to Monjo (2,835m)
Day 4 to 8: Walk to Pangboche via Namche Bazaar
You have five days to slowly walk to Pangboche (4,000m), which is the village nearest to base camp. The trek takes you through Namche Bazaar and Thyangboche, with its famous monastery. The team may choose to trek beyond Pangboche to Pheriche (4,300m), or alternatively, to base themselves at Pangboche for a couple of nights and trek to 4,300m above the village before moving to base camp.
Day 9: Move to Base Camp (4570m)
It is a 3.5 hour walk to Base Camp from Pangboche. Base camp is a large open grassy area, where you will be accommodated in twin-sharing tents.
Day 10 to 11: Organize food and fixed rope practice
You will have a couple of days to get organized. There will be a fixed rope session and the team will walk to 5,000m on the ridge above base camp.
Day 12 to 18: Acclimatisation to Camp 2 (5,900m)
En route to the summit, you will utilise camps at 5,300m (ABC), 5,700m (Camp 1), 5,900m (Camp 2) and 6,300m (Camp 3). Most climbers choose to climb as far as Camp 2 as part of their acclimatisation, prior to a summit attempt. Initially, you will walk to ABC, sleep there, then carry a light load to Camp 1 before returning to BC. On your second rotation you will sleep at Camp 1, with the aim of climbing along the ridge to Camp 2. Some teams have a final rotation, where they sleep at Camp 2.
Day 19 to 24: Summit push
The route from BC to ABC is simple walking, unless there is ice and snow on the scree. ABC is located on a large plateau and not all teams use this, as water needs to be portered to it. The height gain from BC to Camp 1 is nearly 1,200m, so it is a good idea to split this initially by using an ABC. Above ABC is the infamous talus field, which must be traversed to reach the fixed ropes that lead up slabs to Camp 1. Camp 1 to Camp 2 is typically 70% on rock in dryish conditions, with sections of British Grade ‘Severe’. It culminates in a 15m vertical section to reach the top of the ‘Yellow Tower’, just short of Camp 2 (this is normally jumared, using a foot loop). Camp 2 to Camp 3 is mixed rock, snow and ice, which is loose in places, with the hardest part being below the Grey Tower. Above Camp 3 snow and ice on the summit slopes is as steep as 50°.
Day 25 to 28: Return trek to Lukla
Day 29: Flight to Kathmandu
Day 30: Leisure time in Kathmandu
Day 31: Depart Kathmandu
Details
More info
Price includes: · All arrival and departure transfer services in Kathmandu · 4 nights’ accommodation at Kathmandu on B/B basis (total number of nights at arrival and departure) · Guide, cook, kitchen staffs and porters during the trekking and climbing, including wages, equipment, medical & accident insurances for all staff · Domestic flight return ticket to the start location of the trek for all Members and staff · All trekking and camping equipment camp (furniture, kitchen ware, dining tents, etc.) · Large Base Camp tent (single basis) · Mountain tents above Base Camp (twin shared basis) · 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea or coffee) along with accommodation during the trek, at Base Camp and High Camps · Climbing permit · National park fee · Garbage Deposit · One Everest summiteer Climbing Sherpa per client (for the summit day) – National Guide / Aspirant Guide · All costs related to the Government Liaison Officer · First Aid medical kit for the Members and staff · Satellite phone for security – available to Members at cost · Radio set for security during climbing · Required fixed and dynamic ropes during the climb · Emergency Oxygen and Mask Regulator · Government Taxes levied in Nepal · Welcome Dinner in Kathmandu
Price excludes: · International flight fare from/to Kathmandu · Any airport departure taxes which might be applicable at the time of the Expedition · Visa fees · Summit/Safety bonus USD 500. · Tips for climbing, kitchen and porter staff (up to the Member to decide the amount) · Any costs related to the Expedition terminating earlier than expected (such as additional nights in Kathmandu or changing international flight tickets) · Any costs related to the Member having left the Expedition earlier than the rest of the group or having decided to spend one or more days in lodges when the rest of the Expedition is in Base Camp. · Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (except welcome dinner) · Extra hotel charges at Kathmandu (such as bar and laundry expenses) · Optional trips or sightseeing tours · Personal climbing equipment · Travel insurance · Personal repatriation and medical insurance (mandatory) · Emergency evacuation and / or helicopter rescue if required · Nepal custom duty for import of Expedition goods arriving into Nepal (if applicable) · Personal expenses
Helicopter transfer from Base Camp to Lukla or Kathmandu is possible at extra cost. High Himalayan Climbing & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. can arrange such flight for you at short notice. In order to have the best possible acclimatisation, flying to Base Camp by helicopter is absolutely not recommended.
Meeting point
FAQs
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About the guide
Jyamchang & Guides' Team
4.7
(15)
Mountain Guide
Hi! I'm Jyamchang, IFMGA/NNMGA certified mountain guide. I work together with a team of certified and professional mountain and trekking guides. If I'm not available to guide you, one of my colleagues will take great care of you.
I come from the East part of Nepal, between Makalu (8,470m) and Kangchenjunga (8,586m). I am IFMGA/UIAGM fully certified since 2009.
I have 20+ experience of climbing in the Himalaya. I’ve climbed Mt Everest (7 times), Mt Cho Oyu in Tibet (2 times), Mt Ama Dablam (8 times), Baruntse (2 times), Island peak (15 times), Lobuche (10 times), Pokhalde (10 times), Mera peak (10 times), Mehera peak (5 times), Chulu far east (3 times), Mt Shishapangma until camp 3, Manaslu until 7200m, and Chulu West, Lhakpa ri and other another few more times.
I also have extensive experience of climbing in Europe: France, Italy, UK and Norway (where I work for three months during the summer as a glacier guide).
I'm also a technical mountain rescue coordinator for the 8000's.
It will be my pleasure to guide you through your journey whether for trekking, peak climbing or any mountaineering expedition. Get in touch and let's discuss about the purpose of your trip.
Languages
Nepali | English
Certificates
NNMGA | IFMGA
What people are saying about this trip
Ryan
Really nice company very good logistic and well organized with a really professional and friendly UIAGM mountain guide. Super thankful to high Himalayan climbing expedition pvt.ltda. for the first successfully alpine climb expedition to Ama Dablam in this autumn 2018, cheers mate!
Martin
As some famous mountaineer once said about his Sherpa climbing partner, Jyamchang belongs to a new generation of Nepali guides who really love to climb. For them, mountaineering isn’t just about business. And that’s the reason why we got along very well whilst attempting the ascent of Ama Dablam in April 2017. We were lucky enough to be able to meet beforehand in Chamonix for a thorough check-up of the equipment and a briefing on the various logistics. I found him to be that kind of straight-to-the-point, smiling and organized person I was hoping to have as a guide and partner for an ambitious climb above 6000 meters, which I had only performed once before (on Island Peak). We met at the airport in Kathmandu and joined a good friend of mine and his trekking guide, who accompanied us during the acclimatization trip across the 3 passes and on to EBC. This gave us plenty of time to get our bodies accustomed to altitude. Jyamchang and I performed a daily health check-up to monitor the effects of altitude, a routine which I found to be very professional. We had agreed during our first Skype discussions that we were going to climb alpine style. That is minimum logistics, no fixed ropes etc. The idea of climbing a difficult mountain such as Ama Dablam without these facilitating artefacts strongly appealed to me, and I appreciated that Jyamchang pushed for this approach of the climb. This was not just pulling the client to the top of the mountain and then collecting the summit bonus. Unfortunately, due to poor weather conditions the day before summit day, we were unable to reach the summit. However, I found that Jyamchang’s attitude during the difficult descent with rapidly degrading weather conditions, and another party that we had to help descend, was again showing a professional and competent approach to the mountain environment. All in all, we had a great time in the beautiful surroundings of the Khumbu valley and may be climbing together again in a future expedition. I can strongly recommend Jyamchang for trekking and climbing elsewhere in the world (Jyamchang also guides in Norway). Martin, 32 - Belgium
Martin
After a year and a half of planning, a new attempt was made on Ama Dablam. This time a third person joined the climbing party. Acclimatisation on Lobuche gave us a foretaste of what the numerous pitches on Ama Dablam's steep terminal slopes would feel like. Good weather conditions and a swift Alpine style climb to C1, C2 and finally the summit concluded this project. Thank you so much Jyamchang for guiding us up there! The timing of the climb (before Autumn's commercial expeditions), choice of porters and additional logistics were once again very professional.
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