Climb Lenin Peak from Osh in Kyrgyzstan, 23 days

Arriving to Osh, accommodation at a local hotel.

Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Pamir” (3600 m). Accommodation in Pamir BC.

Breakfast, medical check. Acclimatization hike to Petrovsky peak ridge. We ascent until we reach snow line at a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, you will see a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and Achik-Tash tract. We return to Base Camp for dinner, take some rest, and start our preparations for trekking to Camp 1.

Breakfast, trekking to Camp 1. You may take a horse to carry your luggage (for an additional fee). It takes 1 hour on foot to get from BC to «Lukovaya Polyana». Then, you take a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1. The total walk will take around 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Acclimatization climb to the viewpoint on 4700. Descend to Camp 1. Dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Ascent to Yuhin Peak. Climbing there is not very technical and you won’t need any special equipment. Overnight in the setup camp on the top of Yukhin peak. Night in tents. Self-cooking.

Breakfast, descent to Camp 1 (4400m). We take some Rest and prepare everything for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m). Self-cooking.

Rest day in Camp 1.Preparation for trekking to Camp 2.

From Camp1 to Camp2 climbers leave one hour before sunrise to avoid heat and wet snow. All dangerous and difficult parts are equipped with fixed ropes. In the upper part, the route goes to an ice plateau called «Skovorodka» (frying pan). It takes 7-9 hours to cross the plateau and get to the 5300 m point. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

We have some breakfast and start climbing in a roped team with crampons on. Our goal is to reach the steep slopes of the Razdelnaya peak. Camp3 is located on the spaciousdome of the peak at 6100 m point. It should take about 4-6 hours to get from Camp2 to Camp3. After lunch, we will go higher to the viewpoint, where you can see Korzherenvskaya peak and Communism peak. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Early in the morning, we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk with crampons on and in a roped team. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, we go down to the Base camp and have our dinner at the base camp.

Rest at the Base Camp.

You should be climbing with less effort and much faster with proper acclimatization. We have dinner and night at Camp 1 (cooking service included).

Camp 1 – Camp2. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self-cooking.

Camp 2-Camp 3. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Prepare for the summit.

We have to leave Camp 3 before the sunrise. We walk in a roped team with crampons on. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the ridge of Lenin Peak. We will cross steep(45 degrees) icy slope called a “knife” and pass between the rocks. The route crosses the “plateau of skydivers” and goes to the rocks. There are no obvious directions and it is easy to get lost in whiteout conditions. On the very top of the peak, you will find asmall Lenin sculpture.There is one important safety rule: 2 PM is a turning point! If you have not reached the summit by this time, you must immediately start descending to Camp3!Descent to Camp 3 (6100 m). Self-cooking.

Early in the morning, we start descending from Camp 3 to Camp 1. We walk in a roped team with crampons on and have our lunch at Camp 1. Rest (cooking service included).

Descent to Base Camp. You can hire a horse to carry your gear (extra charge). Сelebration in Base Camp.

Reserve days in case of bad weather.

After breakfast, we transfer to Osh city. You will have a lunchbox for lunch. Stay in the hotel in Osh.