One of our certified guides will help you conquer the highest peak of Perú: the Huascaran South Face. Join us in this 6-day expedition!
Cordillera Blanca
6 Days
Jun - Aug
Today I bring you a great proposal. I would like to help you reach the Huascaran South Face in only 6 days! It is the main peak of the two summits that the mountain has. The other one is the North summit, with a total altitude of 6655 meters.
The Huascaran South Face is the dream of many climbers. In addition, the mountain offers multiple ascent routes and they are not technically difficult. However, its high altitude plus the usual risk of avalanches turn it a serious ascent.
Besides that, the weather and snow conditions change every year. That makes Huascaran a real challenge due to cracks and large avalanches that may fall during the winter season. Anyway, the ascent of Huascaran South Face is one of the highlights of the Andes. And if you do it with a qualified guide, there is nothing to fear.
There are many other easier programs near Huaraz, which include a less demanding summit. For example, I am also leading this 3-day ascent to the Nevado Maparaju. It is a perfect option as well!
And if you are decided to climb the Huascaran with me, please fill out the form and get in touch. I will be happy to lead you up there!
Transfer from Huaraz, through the Callejón de Huaylas, to Musho. Here we will load our luggage on the donkeys and start a 4-or-5-hour hike to the Huascarán Base Camp, where we’ll spend the first nigh (-/L/D).
Today we‘ll climb to High Camp 1 with the help of porters, who will carry our camping equipment and food. From this point we will see both the south and north peaks of Huascarán. Dinner and lodging in tents on the glacier (B/L/D). At this altitude, the temperature at night falls to -13°C.
This morning we will continue to the Camp 2 climbing over the steep section of the glacier with crevasses, avalanches in the chutes and an area of icefall. Our porters will accompany us to Camp 2 in La Garganta (“The Throat“) between the North Summit and the South Summit. We will sleep in tents on the glacier (B/L/D).
Summit day! We begin our ascent very early this morning to the South Summit (6768 m). The trail takes us abruptly up, continues through many crevasses and avalanche zones until we will arrive at the flat summit ridge. From here you can see all the Cordillera Blanca. The unforgettable view from the summit makes us forget all our effort to get there! After enjoying the summit and taking some pictures, we must descend back to High Camp II. If everyone feels fine and weather is good, we can descend to the Base Camp. On the contrary, we will stay in High Camp II.
The ascent takes 6-7 hours, the descent to High Camp II around 3-4 hours and the descent from High Camp II to Base Camp other 3-4 hours (B/L/D).
We will reserve this day in case of bad weather or to rest in High Camp II (B/L/D).
Our last day. Early in the morning the donkey drivers will load the luggage so we can descend to the village of Musho for 3-4 hours. Here our private transport will be waiting to take us to Huaraz, our final destination. Here we say goodbye to the local team and have dinner at my home (a special dish called Pachamanca). Lodging in the hotel in Huaraz (B/L/-).
More info
Not included in the price:
Meeting point
What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb this mountain? Is this program suitable for children or older people?
For this tour, you need good physical condition, and also before going better to do some mountain climbing courses. We recommend for this trip to be between 18 years old and approximately 60 years old, but if the participant feels very well trained in the 3 aspects that are very important, such as being physically, technically, and psychologically prepared. Then, the participant is ready to take on this challenge and climb this summit. For more information, we can schedule a call via WhatsApp. In order to request information about you, we would like to receive your experience from your CV of mountain climbing from your previous trips.
How far in advance should I start training and what kind of training do you suggest?
For this type of demanding or technical climbing sports, it is recommended to do some summits above 5 thousand meters beforehand and have good knowledge of high mountain technical equipment such as the use of technical ice axes, ice screws, correct use of crampons, and of course all the technical material. For more information, we can schedule an appointment to be able to explain in more detail everything about the mountain equipment and the preparations prior to joining our outings.
Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment, and if so, what would be the approximate cost of that?
For this trip, personal equipment & personal technical equipment is not included, so you have to have your own equipment, such as personal equipment (such as boots, ice axe, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Gore-Tex, etc.) If you do not have this list, it is possible to rent the whole list in Huaraz. For detailed information, send you the entire list that you should have, and you can contact us for more precise information. We can also schedule a call via WhatsApp and we will announce more details about this question.
Will there be porters to help to carry group and personal equipment?
In some sections, we have porters but if you want an extra porter for your personal belongings there is an additional cost of USD 65 per day. In some sections, we will use mules or donkeys to the base camp. For more information, we can schedule a call and we can explain how the trip will be done.
How will accommodation and meals be handled on the mountain?
During the trek & mountain, we will sleep in high-altitude tents, and within our budget, the tour includes breakfast, picnic lunch, and dinner. If you have any more questions, we can schedule a call to explain all the details of the trip.
What happens in the event of bad weather?
In case of bad weather, the local guide who is a certified guide will make the most correct decision on what to do at the moment. One more day of reservation can be added, but this will have an extra cost. The final decision will be made on the ground by local guides. If you have any other questions, we can fix a date to explain.
Are there any other special requirements such as permits/insurance/vaccines that we need to consider before the tour?
To enter the Cordillera Blanca Huascaran National Park, a fee of 150 soles per person is paid. We recommend having the mandatory vaccines that are required by world health the COVID-19 vaccine, and we also recommend having accident insurance. We always recommend Partners –Global Rescue. If you have any more questions about the trip, we can schedule a call via WhatsApp.
What is the guide-to-client ratio to climb this mountain?
For these mountains, for non-technical mountains, a guide takes 3 clients so a Ratio 3pax = 1 local guide. For technical access mountains, the guide takes a maximum of 2 clients, meaning a ratio of 2 customers = 1 local guide.
What is the best time of the year to climb this mountain?
The best time to climb these peaks is from June to August.
Can I join a group?
For trips whether trekking or high mountains, going privately is the most recommended option, but the costs are more expensive. So, if one joins a group, the prices will be more reasonable. In the mountains, the only disadvantage is if you are in a wall with another partner and if one of the participants gets tired or gets sick. In this case, you have to abort or cancel the summit and return together. For more information, contact us. We can schedule a call via WhatsApp to clarify all your questions.
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
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Guide Agency
Peru Expeditions is a Guide Agency and Tour Operator based in Huaraz, Peru.
It's a family-owned travel agency, which was founded more than 35 years ago, and is now managed by IFMGA-guide Juventino and his son, Eric.
We organize trekkings and mountain expeditions in Cordillera Blanca, and all around Peru.
Languages
| English
Certificates
AGMP | IFMGA
Bad
Eric from Peru Expeditions is a fabulous, safe, and conscientious Tour Operator. He chose an incredible guide for us (Darwin) who was highly esteemed by every guide we met at every point along the journey-the respect of one’s peers speaks for itself! We were very well supported, always had perfect timing with seeing sunrises, beating “the crowd” to our destinations, and had ample food. The Peruvian mountains are stunningly beautiful- I’m ready to go back again already! Book with Eric - he’s going to take good care of you.
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