Ascent to ‘Cabeza de Condor’ in Condoriri, Bolivia

Reach the summit of 'Cabeza de Condor', a 5648 m mountain of the Condoriri group, in Bolivia, together with an IFMGA mountain guide.

Andes

6 Days

May - Oct

Description

At 5648 m, 'Cabeza de Condor' is an iconic mountain of the Condoriri massif in the Cordillera Real.

Because of its impressive shape, it's also known as the 'Bolivian Matternorn', like the famous mountain in the Alps.

The Condoriri massif is a group of snowy peaks, all above 5000 meters. 'Cabeza de Condor' is the highest of them.

Climbing this peak is a classical trip for mountaineers in Bolivia. This time, I invite you to a 6-day expedition that will start from the city of La Paz.

The only way of reaching Condoriri base camp is by foot, so we'll walk there from Tuni Lagoon at 4200 m**.**

Nevertheless, before approaching 'Cabeza de Condor' I propose to climb other peaks in Condoriri, such as Austria, Ilusion and Pequeño Alpamayo.

Once we get a proper acclimatization we will head towards our main objective. It will take around 6 hours of climbing.

Although most climbers ascend this mountain through the Normal Route or Directisima, you can climb it from other sides too. But you have to consider those routes are steep.

Once in the summit, you will have stunning views of the Cordillera Real and Lake Titicaca.

Then, we'll descend to base camp in 3 hours.

Please contact me if you are interesting in mountaineering in a unique region of the Bolivian Andes!

You can also check this incredible trip from Condoriri base camp: Hiking to Chacapampa.

Price includes

Guiding fee

Itinerary

Day 1: La Paz - Tuni - Chiarkhota

From the city of La Paz we will go to Tuni Lagoon by private transportation (2-hour trip).

From Llama square we will walk for 3 hours to the Chiarkhota lagoon (4650 m), located in the base of the solid Condoriri Massif.

We will camp near the lagoon.

Day 2: Acclimatization day

This day we can climb Mirador Peak (5100 m) or Austria (5200 m). We can decide in base camp.

Night camping.

Day 3: Ilusion Peak

Ascent to Ilusion peak (5250 m), hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours.

From here, it is about 3 hours climbing to the summit of Ilusion.

Then, we descend for about 2 hours and return to the base camp.

Night camping.

Day 4: Pequeño Alpamayo

Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours.

Here we will use climbing equipment.

We arrive to the base of the snowy pyramid, and then have a technical climb during the first 80 m. (55 grades).

After passing this technical side, we will ascend up to the summit of Pequeño Alpamayo (5400 m) in 3.30 hours.

We will have some minutes over the summit to admire the mountainous landscape that surrounds us.

Descend will take 4 hours. Return to base camp, night camping.

Day 5: Cabeza de Condor

Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours.

From here, we will use climbing equipment, climbing for about 6 hours to reach the summit at 5.700 m by the normal way.

Then we descend for 3 hours to base camp, night camping.

Day 6: Return to La Paz

Descent for about 2 hours to Tuni Lagoon, with llamas assistance for the heavy bags.

From here, we will return to the city of La Paz by private transportation.

About the guide

-Jenaro

3.2

(5)

Mountain Guide

I work together with several IFMGA/UIAGM colleagues. So if I'm not available to guide you, one of my colleagues equally certified will guide you.

I began to climb the mountain when I was 15 years old. I was born in Pinaya (3.800 m.a.s.l.), a region located not far away from the top of the base camp of the majestic snow-covered Illimani (6.462 m.a.s.l.). I dedicated most part of my life to climb different ice and Rock Mountains through the Cordillera Real, Cordillera Occidental, and Cordillera de Apolobamba.

Certificates

AGMTB | UIAGM

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What people are saying about -Jenaro

Stephen

The overall experience was quite excellent. The guide as well as mountain were fantastic and I had an absolutely incredible time climbing this mountain. Jenaro is an fantastic example of hard working South American who wants best for his people as well as his clients. For example, when we initially met he found out how I was charged almost twice as much for a taxi as I should have been, chased the taxi driver down, and made them give me back my money. He is a very caring and very responsible guide. However, I was somewhat concerned about the overall organization of the trip. First and foremost, Jenaro is not actually the guide who goes up the mountain with you - he runs the organization that provides a guide as well as any gear you may need. In addition, at times the entire outfit seemed quite disorganized. For example, when I arrived to La Paz and let Jenaro know I had arrived he thought I was coming the next day and seemed to need convincing to let me hike the day I wanted to despite multiple back and forth discussions over WhatsApp. There were other small, yet very prominent, cases of of not having clear organization. As said before, Jenaro is a very caring and knowledgeable resource in La Paz however could certainly improve in organization and structuring his business.

Ishaaq

Jenaro and Pedro where highly Unmotivated to assist me in ascending Sajama. I had to stop them from changing the program to seeing the Salt Flats and seeing Copacabhana. They wanted me to see that first and then hike by myself there to "acclimatize " when El Alto is higher than those places. They talked about everything in Bolivia except Mount Sajama. They just wanted me to fail. Please do not advertise their services to other climbers on your platform, thanks. -Ishaaq

Arnaud

Jenaro was not my guide for this trip even if I was not aware of it