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Alpine mountaineering ascent to Regina Margherita Hut

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Alpine mountaineering ascent to Regina Margherita Hut
Alpine mountaineering ascent to Regina Margherita Hut
Alpine mountaineering ascent to Regina Margherita Hut
Alpine mountaineering ascent to Regina Margherita Hut
Alpine mountaineering ascent to Regina Margherita Hut

One of the IFMGA-certified guides in the Peakshunter team has a big plan for you in the Alps: to reach the Regina Margherita, the highest mountain hut in Europe.

Alps

2 Days

Jun - Sep

High

Intermediate


Description

I am offering 5 places to form a brave group of climbers who want to reach up to the Regina Margherita, the highest mountain hut of the Alps.

The Regina Margherita is a guarded mountain hut located in the Alps, on the border between Switzerland and Italy. It is located at the top of Signalkuppe, one of the highest peaks of the Monte Rosa Massif. Its altitude is 4,549 meters, being thus the highest mountain hut of all Europe. In addition, it is an interesting astronomical observatory.

During this 2-day alpine mountaineering ascent we’ll gain a remarkable elevation, although with no extreme difficulty. And once at the Regina Margherita Hut you won’t believe such a great viewpoint over the Alps!

The peak where this refuge lies is the Signalkuppe, the 4th highest summit in the Monte Rosa group and the 5th in the Alps. That mountain offers a classic climbing itinerary without major technical difficulties despite its altitude.

With the intention of giving you an estimate idea about the itinerary, I’ll share with you a sample program. Please keep in mind that it will depend on snow and weather conditions as well as the dates of opening / closing of the lift facilities.

SAMPLE ITINERARY

Day 1

We will meet in Staffal, Gressoney. We’ll have a short talk about the next days and the checking of equipment. Then, we’ll take the cable car to Punta Indren at 3,270 m. From here, we start walking either to the Mantova Hut or directly to the Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). This walk will take us about 2:30 hours. We’ll have dinner and spend the night in one of those mountain huts. The altitude gain for the day will be 400 vertical meters.

Day 2

Today we’ll leave the hut after breakfast. Time to put our crampons on and climb the glacier until we are near the Balmenhorn and the Vincent Pyramid. After that, we will get to the Lysjoch Pass at 4,250 meters above sea level. We then must descend under the Parrotspitze to reach the Signalkuppe. The final section consists in a steep trail leading us finally to the Regina Margherita Hut at 4,554 m. The return will be done by the same route we ascended. We will take the lift down to the parking lot, where this program ends. The round trip of this day will take around 9 hours, with an elevation of 900 meters of vertical drop.

So, if you want to be part of my mountaineering group get in touch with me by filling out the form. I’ll be my pleasure to help you reach the Regina Margherita and conquer the highest hut in Europe.

Price includes

  • Accommodation included
  • Guiding fee
  • Breakfast
  • Dinner
  • Mountain guide expenses
  • Harness
  • Lifts tickets
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe

Price details

  • We take care of the hut reservations (Città di Mantova or Capanna Gnifetti hut, depending on the availabilities) and of the ticket facilities booking.
  • We can offer extra services to support you for the planning of accommodations and logistics before and after the trip: these extra fees are not included and have to be paid on the spot.
  • PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE:
  • Hiring of trekking poles - to be paid directly on the spot
  • Mountaineering boots (to be rented, paid and collected by customer at rental shops in the area one day before the trip)
  • Extra meals, water and beverages/drinks for the clients and the Guide
  • Transportation to the starting point
  • Transport during the trip
  • Luggage transfer and storage during the trip
  • Research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
  • Personal Insurance- Anything that is not mentioned under "Price Includes"
  • Anything that is not mentioned under "Price Includes"

Details

More info

  • Research and rescue insurance with IFMGA coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days.

  • Lifts: Staffal-Gabiet gondola + Gabiet-Passo dei Salati gondola + Passo dei Salati-Indren cable car, multi-day round trip ticket €40 per person. Nide d'Aigle-Saint Gervais ticket is 40€, Indren ticket is 47€.

  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by they respective owners, without any liability attributable to the mountain guide.

Accommodation in half boarding (beverages not included) Gnifetti hut is 75€ for clients, 45 for the Guide Margherita hut is 90€ for clients, 60€ for the Guide Sella refuge is 77€ for clients, 45€ for the Guide

Extra for food and beverages 1-2 night in a B&B 55-70€ for each night (in Italy) Tunnel MB ticket 58€ Renting gear 20€/day

Meeting point

Staffal, Gressoney - Aosta Valley

FAQs

What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb this mountain? Is this program suitable for children or older people?

The Capanna Margherita Hut is considered a trip suitable for people with some previous experience on Alps glaciers, good confidence with the use of crampons and ice axe on steep slopes and hard/iced snow, in addition, of course, very good stamina, and excellent fit.

A good physical level and some previous experience in mountaineering activities are basic skills that are better to have. In particular, it could be useful to have some confidence in progression with crampons on glaciers and some previous hiking ability, even on snow and ice, to be safe on steep and have no fear on the crampons, even on rock passages.

This is why we suggest having a 1-day introduction to mountaineering on a glacier if you are a beginner or have never been on a mountain over 3,500m. See the following link: https://www.explore-share.com/trip/1-day-glacier-travel-on-mont-blanc-beginner-program/

Regarding your fitness, a good workout in the months leading up to the trip is recommended in order to have great preparation for the mountain and so that you can experience the adventure to the fullest and not get too fatigued.

How far in advance should I start training and what kind of training do you suggest?

In the months leading up to the trip, we recommend consistent training to improve your endurance and your cardiovascular fitness (running, hiking, biking). When you confirm the trip, we will send you specific recommendations about the training.

Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment, and if so, what would be the approximate cost of that?

The loan of the personal technical equipment is included in the tariff; the guide provides it on the day of departure, after the starting briefing. The gear for rental includes a mountaineering harness, straight-hand ice axe, and crampons.

In addition, the guide will bring the common safety gear, such as rope, ice screws, daisy chains, and carabiners.

All you need to check and bring is your personal mountaineering clothing, including technical mountaineering boots, waterproof, and rigid soles (please avoid bringing new ones you have never used before the ascent!). After your booking confirmation, we will send a complete and detailed list of recommended equipment and clothing and if you need anything for rent, we will recommend some shops where you can hire the necessary gear. Boots renting is around 20-22€/day, and trekking poles are 15€ per person.

Will there be porters to help to carry group and personal equipment?

Absolutely no porters are expected for this ascent. Each participant should bring a personal backpack and technical equipment, including a thermos for tea/water and energy bars/dried fruit and energy food for the trip.

How will accommodation and meals be handled on the mountain?

We will take care of the accommodation booking that includes the overnight stay at the Capanna Gnifetti hut / Città di Mantova hut with half-board formula, which includes breakfast and dinner, but not the beverages/drinks or the extra meals for the clients and for the Guide.

Any other extra meals and all the beverages (water, beer, sparkling beverages, etc.) are NOT included and have to be covered by the customers directly on the spot for them and for the guide too.

What happens in the event of bad weather?

A few days before the trip, the Guide will inform all participants about the weather forecasts and general conditions expected for the itinerary (temperatures, wind, snow conditions, etc.).

In case of bad weather, we will do our best to offer you an alternative program or move the date a few days later, depending on customer availability.

Are there any other special requirements such as permits/insurance/vaccines that we need to consider before the tour?

Yes, there are several special requirements that you need to consider for this trip. Here are some of them; please read them carefully before confirming the booking.

  • It is strongly recommended to have rescue and research insurance; if you need one, after your confirmation, we can recommend some solutions suitable for you.
  • There are no specific vaccine requirements for this trip, but it is always a good idea to check with your doctor or a travel clinic to make sure you are up to date on routine vaccinations. Also, there is no longer a need to provide proof of vaccination, recovery from COVID-19, or negative test results.
  • We finally invite all non-EU citizens to inform themselves about specific permits to enter Italy.

What is the guide-to-client ratio to climb this mountain?

For Margherita hut the guide-to-client ratio is 1:5. This is the maximum number in order to ensure your and the Guide's safety. If you are a group of more than 3 people, we have more Guides available to undertake the adventure.

What is the best time of the year to climb this mountain?

The best time to do this ascent is from the end of May to the end of September. If conditions are good, the ascent could be done even till the end of October, by overnight staying at the winter hut; in this case, you have to plan to bring extra food with you (the winter hut has a wood stove, blankets, and crockery for the cook).

Can I join a group?

Yes, you can choose to book a private tour or decide to join a group to reduce the costs.

We have already confirmed and planned group trips, departing in 2024: check the best date for you in our calendar.

Before confirming a group tour, please remember that you will share the ascent with other climbers who could have a different fit and previous experience. The guide will be responsible for the entire team and in any case or reason, it could guarantee the summit if only 1 participant has physical problems or isn’t enough fit to respect the timetable for the ascent and descent. The decision to share a trip with others to reduce the total costs requires accepting to be part of a team, in which adaptation and capacity for mutual support are essential requirements for all participants.

If you evaluate your fitness level and your technical skills as too low or inadequate to the abilities and efforts that this demanding ascent requires, you probably should take the PRIVATE trip, as the best option for you.

How can I reach the meeting point?

The meeting point is in Gressoney Staffal, at the bar Wunderbar, next to the lifts ticket desk, reachable by car from the Pont-Saint-Martin exit (Milan-Turin highway) in about 50 minutes, or by public bus service (Arriva company).

At what time will we be back to the parking area?

The meeting with the guide on the first day will be in the early afternoon, around 2:00 pm (please remember to check the bus timetable in case you need to reach the meeting point by public transport).

Time back to the parking area on the second day is around 3:30-4:00 pm.

What additional costs should I consider?

The hiring of the trek poles and the renting of the boots are NOT included. If needed, the renting of the boots has to be done by the customers before the trip to one of the shops in Gressoney. We will send you more details in case of need.

The costs for beverages and extra meals for the clients and the Guide are NOT included and have to be covered on the spots, sharing the guide’s fee between all the participants.

The transfer to the meeting point is NOT included.

What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?

We understand that finding the perfect place to stay is an essential part of your adventure experience. To help you with this, we’ve curated a list of three highly recommended hotels that offer comfort, convenience, and a touch of local charm. These accommodations are well-suited for adventurers looking to relax and rejuvenate after an exciting day of exploration
Grand Hotel Royal e Golf Courmayeur Italy
See rooms
Hotel Cresta et Duc Courmayeur Italy
See rooms
Hotel Courmayeur Courmayeur Italy
See rooms

About the guide

Guide profile image

-PeaksHunter

4.7

(359)

Mountain Guide

Giving and receiving smiles, seeing the satisfaction on the faces of our customers, seeking opportunities for growth, stimulating authenticity in personal and group relationships, in sharing mountaineering disciplines, fears, efforts, and moments of difficulty, which are part of the integrated with experiences, essential ingredients of every summit climb: these are our focus, our beliefs, and our most important results, as outdoor Professionals and as people who love the mountains and their work as Alpine Guides!

Founded in 2013 by Elis and Silvia, PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides is a team of IFMGA-certified Mountain Professionals and outdoor activities experts, based in the town of Aosta, not far from Courmayeur-Chamonix, on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc massif.

We live and work in the beautiful Aosta Valley region, very close to French and Swiss borders near to Geneva, Milan, and Turin international airports.

Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Dufourspitze, Pyramide Vincent and Regina Margherita Hut, Gran Paradiso, Breithorn, Lyskamm, Castor and Pollux are only a few of several 4000 Alps summits you can climb with us: most of our team of Guides were born and grew up close to these mountains and they have explored the ascent routes several times during different seasons, with skis or crampons!

- We love our work: we plan all our trips with great commitment and deep respect for the Alpine environment, for its inhabitants, and its territories. Including local traditions in different valleys and Alpine areas.

- We love Mountain, Nature, and Outdoor activities, that we like to share with people from all around the world. We are enthusiastic to meet like-minded adventurers and share new experiences and memorable emotions with the support of our Mountain Guides.

- Safety and Risk Management are essential for us, as elements of fundamental importance during every single trip we plan and carry out with our customers: for this reason, we offer introductory courses to the different alpine disciplines (Mountaineering, Rock climbing, Ice climbing, Ski mountaineering, Freeride, Rescue Crevasse, and Avalanche) to convey awareness and responsibility to our customers.

- We offer solid Experience, with several years organizing outdoor disciplines around mountain and wild areas, in many different countries of Italy and Europe, for individuals or groups, including 7-day customer support for booking, logistics, and personal assistance for planning and reservations.

- As certified Mountain Guides, we offer training courses, to improve technical skills and to learn basic knowledge about mountaineering in the Alps, which is essential to explore and climb the Mountains safely in any situation or conditions.

- We are happy to provide customized programs for every customer's demand: our Experience is synonymous with Professionalism and Customer Care to guarantee unforgettable emotions and beautiful smiles!

Fulfill your dreams, discover breathtaking views or simply enjoy an extraordinary day: you just need to use your imagination and we will carry out your trip as you desire to live it!

Let’s plan your next mountain project together!

Certificates

IFMGA

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What people are saying about this trip

Samantha

Dear Exploreshare, I am unfortunate to inform you that I passed a very bad experience with the guide Paolo Molinari (PEAKSHUNTER), especially during the descent from Margherita Regina hut, the 23rd of September. The treatment that I experienced from the guide was gravely unprofessional. I was pushed to my limit by Paolo. During the last meters to the summit and especially on the descent, he constantly put pressure on me to go faster despite telling him that I prefer to conserve my energy so that I can last for the rest of the descent down. He ignored and pushed our group much faster than I was comfortable. On the descent down from Margherita Hut, we were nearly running down as he was leading, even with the knowledge that one of the people (me) was slower than the rest. If we had kept a more slower pace, even if we were a couple hours later, I believe I would have been able to kept walking down without becoming exhausted. The descent was an extremely horrible experience for me as I was pushed to my limits by Paolo. We were given almost no breaks for me to drink water or eat after the summit. At times I told him that I needed a pause to drink water as I was getting dehydrated and he refused and had us keep walking, leading me to become over-exhausted. I understand that he had other plans in his agenda after Margherita Regina or potentially the risk of bad weather (which I’m not even sure was true because all afternoon was good conditions as everyone else in the group can agree with and attested to me after finishing the descent to the parking) but it did not excuse his treatment and lack of empathy and common sense. I was becoming more and more over-exhausted that I reached my limit due to his impatient attitude. When I told him that I’m at my limit, he scolds me in front of everyone and saying how it’s my fault when he didn’t consider that maybe his pushing and rushing and putting pressure on me caused me to over-exhaust myself instead of going slower to avoid my over-exhausted state. I believe as a guide, one should be flexible to the group (as the conditions allow) and he was unnecessarily pushing when he did not need to. This led me to needing more pauses which clearly irritated and angered him. He ridiculed me in front of the group in English and Italian. He said “In all my 6 years as a guide, never had I had a client that had problems descending down in these conditions”, without even considering that I was EXHAUSTED and other problems of mentality due to his ridicule of me in front of the group, which did not encourage me to keep going nor put me in a mental space to believe that I can keep going. He called me a baby (in front of everyone in the group), when I tried to express my worry about being dehydrated and needing water. He did not have us pause to allow me to drink water when I really needed it, I was refused several times by him. I was very scared about fainting from exhaustion for how he was pushing me. I tried to tell him and he did want to not listen. I believe his cruel behavior was to punish me on purpose as he was obviously unhappy with the situation. At one point, the group had to pull me because I could no longer feel my legs and at one point, he took a photo of me, WITHOUT MY CONSENT, of me lying on the ground, ridiculing me, causing people in the group to laugh. I don’t know if this photo was used to communicate to Peakshunter or for his own personal purposes. I would like him to DELETE it if you can as it was taken of me when I was in a very vulnerable and exhausted state. Giorgia and the others in the group can attest to this. He was on the phone with other colleagues and Silvia (I think, as he omitted communicating to me his actions as he purposely only spoke in Italian to the group so I didn’t understand what was going on). Although I don’t speak fluent Italian, I heard him constantly say on the phone and to everyone in the group in front of me “la merda” several times about me, about this situation which doesn’t inspire confidence in the group but fear. I believe he told Silvia or someone on the phone that I had drunk alcohol and that I was under alcohol influence which was a reason why I wasn’t performing right which is NOT CORRECT as I was NOT drunk. Near the end of the descent towards Gnifetti Hut, he was on the phone again as I was constantly asking for pauses and was not happy with me. I do not understand the entire call in Italian, but I believe he said something along the lines of considering to ABANDON me “abandonnarli” on the mountain if I couldn’t continue or go faster. Again, he spoke loud enough for everyone to hear. This inspired fear in me. I don’t know if he was truly considering it or saying it as a joke (I’m not sure to who), but that was absolutely NOT appropriate. I lost trust and confidence in him as a guide and I was outraged when I heard that, though I did not say anything in the moment. (Later when we arrived at Gnifetti Hut, I told him “Well, I guess you didn’t have to abandon me then”, referencing to his call earlier on the mountain, and he showed irritation to me briefly, proving and confirming that he knows what he said in front of me in Italian.) Especially for a guide to omit speaking in both languages, most of the time only speaking in Italian to the group and leaving me out of the discussion made me uncomfortable as I did not understand what are the risks ahead of us, what needs to be done and what is going on or what is going to happen. While passing by a crevasse on the way down, he asked me if I had seen this crevasse this morning. I said no. And he made a joke saying, “well that could have been you in there”, implying that I should have fallen and died in the crevasse. He told me this in English. I do not understand why he felt the need to say unnecessary things if this was a joke or he said this to me out of spite because he was clearly unhappy with me and the situation we were in. My experience with Paolo Molinari was inexcusable and completely horrendous. I was enraged at this treatment that I injured all afternoon. I have seen other trek and high-mountain guides react better to stress and vulnerable clients. I believe he acted on his own agenda and his own needs instead of considering the needs of the group and the weakest during this course (me). If he had listened to me and adapted to the group, I think this descent would have gone differently. I hope something will be done so he corrects his behavior so no other future client will experience such unprofessional, abusive, and ridiculing treatment. I would even recommend him being admitted into training again or temporarily losing his license as a mountain guide as this was absolutely UNACCEPTABLE behavior that no client or participant should experience. Thank you for your attention. Sincerely, Samantha BAQUIRAN

Mája

Laszlo

Gigio was careful, sober and supportive, Silvia outstanding in cooperativeness, problem solving and persistance. However, a little less cost effective as compared to other teams.

Andrii

During our mountain experience Elis was very confident, balanced emotionally, with a strong sense of responsibility for the security of his customers. He takes security very seriously and follows the minimum-risk scenario. Example: Elis insisted on compromising our planned Mont Blanc ascend and advised to consider more predictable mountain since the weather conditions made Italian way we were planning to take too dangerous for our level. He is also great in keeping very steady consistent pace as well as adapting to the group and infusing fun where it is safe to have it (e.g.: we tried crampon descend on a really steep sections and it was so much fun). We also got very well connected on a personal level. What can be improved: communication while planning all the details before the trip. We would appreciate to have more attention to details, more information about the trip and receiving it as early as possible instead of last minute. Since Mont Blanc did not happen this year, planning it with Elis for 2018. Thanks, a million Elis!

Mája

We didn´t reach the top because my daughter had big problems with her stomack, but Claudio took care after her and was very thoughtful. Thanks to him we reached at least Lysjoch.


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