Ala Archa 7-day mountaineering trip

Anastasiya, an IFMGA-certified guide, invites you to a great mountaineering adventure in the amazing Ak-Sai glacier, in the Ala Archa National Park. You will have the opportunity to climb the Korona peak (4810) and the Bachechekei (4515 m)!

Tian Shan

7 Days

All year

High

Intermediate

Description

I invite you to discover a fantastic mountaineering spot in Kyrgyzstan: the Ak-Sai glacier! It lies in the Ala Archa National Park, 40 kilometers of Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan.

I propose a 7-day program, climbing some of the amazing peaks of this area!

The Ala Archa National Park is located on the Tian Shan mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. One of its most famous spots is the impressive gorge of the Ala Archa River.

Besides, mountaineers from all over the world come to the Ak-Sai area for its more than 150 climbing routes. It offers options for all levels, from beginners to experienced climbers, for rock, ice and mixed routes.

Also, the Ak-Sai icefall is a perfect location for ice climbing lessons, after just 30 minutes walking we will find different ice routes for the classes. We find there ice falls for every level, for ice climbing beginners as well as for more experienced climbers. 3 hours walk from the Ak-Sai hut we will find other ice routes, from 5 to 16 pitches.

We will meet in Bishkek. Before climbing some peaks, I will give you some ice climbing training. Depending on your abilities, it will be 1 or 2 days covering the following:

Ice climbing and ice tools technique
Double rope technique
Ice fifi technique
Belay technique
Moving together technique
Leading and following technique
How to move on ice terrain while climbing
Jumaring with 1 and 2 jumars,
How to make belay stations on the ice
Different tips of belay stations
Quick ice rappeling

Then, the following days we will climb the Korona peak (4810 m) and the Baichechekei (4515 m) peak. You can check the day-by-day itinerary below this text. Of course we can change this program depending on your level, the time you have available and your wishes.

So, want to be part of this mountaineering adventure in Ala Archa? Then contact me and I will give you more information! I also offer a 9-day mountaineering trip to Ala-Archa, including the ascent of other peaks. Check it out!

Price includes

Guiding fee
Permit and entrance fees

Price details

The Price also includes the following Radio communications during the climbing and the First aid kit.
The Price doesn't include the transfer fees. Food and accommodation in mountain hut is 25$ per day/per person.

Itinerary

Day 1: Bishkek-Ala Archa-Ak-Sai hut

Bishkek –Ala –Archa by car. Hiking to Ak-Sai hut. (4-8 hours)

Day 2 to 3: Ice climbing training

Ice training: ice climbing technique; double rope technique; ice tools technique; ice fifi technique; belay technique; moving together technique; leading and following technique; how to move on ice terrain while climbing; jumaring with 1 and 2 jumars; how to make belay stations on the ice; different types of belay stations and quick ice rappeling. If you are good at ice climbing, we can spend only one day for this class.

Day 4: Korona peak ascent (4810 m)

Ascent to Korona Peak (6 ice pitches). It will take us about 8-12 hours.

Day 5: Rest and preparation for next ascent

Half day rest and half day preparation for the next ascent.

Day 6: Acent to Baichehekei peak (4515 m)

Baichechekei (4515 m) ascent (10 ice pitches). It will take us about 10-14 hours.

Day 7: Descent to Bishkek

Details

More info

Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of 30.000 EUR.

Meeting point

Bishkek. I can help you organizing the transfer from the airport if you want. The transfer from airport to Bishkek is not included in the price.

Equipment you will need to bring

Crampons

Harness

Backpack

Helmet

Belay device

Boots, carabiners, waterproof clothing, headlamp, gloves.

FAQs

What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?

We understand that finding the perfect place to stay is an essential part of your adventure experience. To help you with this, we’ve curated a list of three highly recommended hotels that offer comfort, convenience, and a touch of local charm. These accommodations are well-suited for adventurers looking to relax and rejuvenate after an exciting day of exploration

Smart Hotel Bishkek Bishkek Kyrgyzstan

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Garden Hotel Bishkek Bishkek Kyrgyzstan

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Hotel Shah Palace Bishkek Kyrgyzstan

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About the guide

Anastasiya

5.0

(32)

Mountain Guide

I'm an IFMGA-certified guide from Kyrgyzstan and started guiding professionally in 2003. In my 14 years of guiding, I worked as a high altitude and technical mountain guide, trekking and hiking guide, ski-touring guide and ice and rock climbing gide.

I finished Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan and I am a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA).

Additionally, I am ”Snow Leopard”. This title is given to those who have climbed all the highest mountains in the former Soviet Union. These include: Lenin peak (7134 m) 2 ascents, Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) 2 ascents, Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m) 1 ascent, Communism peak (7495 m)1 ascent, Pobeda peak (7439 m)1 ascent.

I have worked all over the Tian-Shan and Pamir ranges. I worked as a guide in Lyallak and Dugoba, in Alla Archa National Park and Suusamyr Valley, Terskey Ala Too and Kyngei-Ala Too.

As a mountain guide, my top 3 priorities are: 1 -safety, 2 –creating positive experiences for my clients and 3 -expedition success.

I am a mountaineer and really love the mountains so I also spend all my free time here. I have participated in expeditions in the Himalayas, Africa, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Patagonia and Russia.

I live and work in a beautiful mountainous country and I will be glad to show you the virgin beauty of the Kyrgyz mountains.

Languages

Kyrgyz | English

Certificates

KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA

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What people are saying about this trip

Katia

Thanks Anastacia ;-) i will never Forget this trip with you and sure it will lead To new climbing adventures. You were Amazing guide and woman. You are welcome in France. Kind regards

Jacob

I would highly recommend Anastasia! I had an amazing trip to Ala Archa with Anastasia during spring 2019. She is an excellent guide, very professional, have a lot of knowledge and you can really feel her passion for being in the mountains. Furthermore she is easy to be around and you can sense the hospitality. My next trip in Kyrgyzstan will definitely be with her again

Edward

Superb trip. Pavel was unavailable for this trip so his wife Anastasia, also part of KMGA, was my guide. She was as friendly as she was professional, taking safety very seriously with avalanche training and digging of snow pits forming part of the trip. I would highly recommend her as a guide. The trip itself was excellent - we were very lucky with the weather and snow conditions. The hut is very interesting, though if you are one for creature comforts this is not the place for you. My only other warning to future participants is that you need a good level of physical fitness to take part in this trip. The hike up is long and sustained, a mixture of hiking and skinning depending on snow conditions. The touring itself was as you would expect - we covered around 1,000m vertical per day but this can vary depending on energy and conditions etc. All in all a brilliant trip. 5* well deserved. Ed

Kyril

The trip was awesome. Anastasiya organised for us a great mountaineering course in the Ala Archa Valley. All went super fine.

Thomas

Anastasiya gave us an excellent introduction into climbing rock and ice. Systematic training and practice in base camp area and on glacier. Mountains close to base camp for every level of skill. Good accomodation in simple hut, and tasty food in base camp kitchen. Kyrgystan and Ala Archa can be highly recommended as destination with reasonable prices and friendly people.