6-day ascent to Mount Tutoko in the Darran Mountains, NZ
This trip is currently unavailable. Continue exploring the site and find your guided adventure!
You may also like
Join one of our IFMGA certified mountain guides in this wonderful 6-day ascent to Mount Tutoko (2723 m), the highest peak of the Darran Mountains range.
Darran Mountains
6 Days
Jan - Apr
Very high
Advanced
Description
Dominating the Darran Mountains, in New Zealand, there is an incredibly charming peak called Mount Tutoko. Located in Fiorland National Park, rises to a height of 2,723 m to embellish the view of the range.
To take a closer look at it, I created a great 6-day program that starts with a flight to Ngapunatoru Plateau, where we will spend the night camping. On the following day, we will traverse through sharp and snowy slopes for several hours, to reach the Northwestern Ridge of Mount Tutoko.
The summit day will include a lot of scrambling and taking rock steps, all leading to a final summit headwall with a crux of approximately AUS Grade 14/US 5.6. There, you will be able to admire the picture-perfect Tasman Sea and other fascinating peaks all across the Southern Alps.
There is another plan, if conditions allow it. We can take the Southeast Ridge route instead, which takes two days of climbing. The most amazing part of this alternative: we could camp under a massive overhanging rock! This has a similar headwall with a crux of about AUS Grade 14/US 5.6.
Whichever routes we decide to take, remember that they are technical. This trip is designed for those who have a strong climbing background and are physically prepared for the challenge.
Don’t wait too long to book this unique 6-day ascent to this wonderful mountain in New Zealand.
If you want another New Zealander challenge, don’t miss this 6-day ascent to Mount Tasman.
Itinerary
Day 1: Meeting and climbing
We will meet in Wanaka or Queenstown and check our gear. Then, we will drive to Milford Sound (4-5 hours) and will enjoy an afternoon walk or climb. We will overnight at Homer Hut.
Day 2: Flight and acclimatization
In the morning, we will fly into Ngapunatoru Plateau. We will acclimatize, consolidate skills or ascend a practice peak. We could alternatively move camp closer to the NW Ridge.
Day 3: Traverse and camping
We will traverse off the plateau and around to the base of the NW ridge. We will set camp and spend the night in tents.
Day 4: Summit day of Mt Tutoko (2723 m)
We will start early (3-4am) and climb up the ridge to the summit. At the end of the day, we will descend back to the tent camp.
Day 5: Contingency day or alternative activity
If we had bad weather on the previous days, we can use it to complete the climb of Mt Tutoko. Alternatively, we could practice rock climbing.
Day 6: Flight out
We will fly out from Ngapunatoru Plateau and head back to Wanaka/Queenstown via Te Anau.
Details
More info
We guide Mt Tutoko on a 1:1 client: guide ratio due to its technical nature.
The nature of the New Zealand mountains dictates that we utilize helicopters or ski-planes when accessing the backcountry. This saves days of heavy load-carrying and allows us to concentrate on the climbing objective whilst making the best use of fine weather days.
Meeting point
FAQs
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
Join our newsletter!
Stay up-to-date on the best adventures.