Climb to the highest mountain hut in Europe with Paolo, IFMGA certified guide in this 3-day adventure. The Margherita Hut offers outstanding views!
Alps
3 Days
Jun - Sep
High
Intermediate
You probably know that the highest hut in Europe is Margherita Hut. And it will be the main objective of this fantastic 3-day climbing trip in the mountains!
At 4559 m, this mythical hut offers unbelievable views ranging from the Maritime Alps to the Berner Oberland, from the 4000 Swiss peaks up to the Central Alps. Spending the night at the highest hut in Europe gives you the possibility to admire the sunset and sunrise from one of the most panoramic points of the Alps.
During this program it will be possible to reach the summits of Punta Zumstein, Punta Parrot, Ludwigshoe, Swarzhorn, Balmenhorn and Punta Vincent. Therefore, we will climb up to 6 peaks over 4000m!
The ascent to the hut does not have particular technical difficulties. In fact, it takes place through great glaciers (sometimes large crevasses are present) on gentle slopes. The steepest part (35°) is just on the last step before the summit. In addition, the ascents to the other peaks involve overcoming slopes up to 45° on snow and ice. Plus there are short sections on the ridge.
Did you find this program tempting? Then please contact me for more information, I will be waiting for your message! And I also offer an option if you want to ski in the area during the spring, check it out!
We meet in Alagna (lift station) at 2PM. We go up with the lift until Punta Indren and then walk up till Mantova Hut. Dinner and overnight in the hut.
D+ 230m
Duration: 1 hour
We leave early in the morning and on the way up we climb Balmenhorn (4167 m), Swarzhorn (4322 m) and Parrot Spitze (4436 m). Then we reach the great summit Punta Gnifetti and the highest Hut in Europe: Capanna Margherita (Margherita hut). Dinner and overnight in the hut.
D+ 1250m
Duration: 6 hours
We depart early to climb Punta Zumstein, then walk down till Punta Indren and with the lift return to Alagna (4-5 hours walk).
D+ 100m, D- 1500m
Duration: 5 hours
More info
I will take care of booking the hut but it's not included in the price.
Equipment: High mountain gear, mountain shoes, gloves, cap, rucksack (min 35L), wind jacket, sunglasses and sunscreen, harness, crampons, ice axe or trekking poles, headlight. You can rent harness, crampons and ice axe if you need, for 5,00 € per day.
Meeting point
How will accommodation be handled?
I can take care of booking the hut, however it's not included in the price.
What are the technical aspects of the climb?
The ascent to the hut does not involve significant technical difficulties, as it takes place through vast glaciers with gentle slopes. While some large crevasses may be present, the steepest part (35°) is encountered just on the last step before the summit. Additionally, the ascents to the other peaks may require overcoming slopes up to 45° on snow and ice, along with short sections on the ridge.
Is this trip suitable for beginners?
This climbing trip may not be suitable for beginners due to the technical aspects involved, including glacier travel and steep snow and ice slopes. Participants should have prior experience in alpine climbing and be comfortable with these conditions.
What is the best time of the year to embark on this trip?
The best time to take this trip is during the months of June through September.
Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own?
You'll need mountain shoes, gloves, hat, a rucksack with a minimum capacity of 35 liters, a wind jacket, sunglasses, sunscreen, harness, crampons, ice axe or trekking poles, and a headlamp. If needed, harness, crampons, and ice axe can be rented for 5.00 € per day.
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
4.9
(14)
Mountain Guide
Strange to say, I began my climbing career after I left behind my valley and my own mountains.
When I finished high school I moved to Turin, in order to get a mechanical engineer degree.
There I started to climb on a little indoor wall at the University Sport Centre and, very soon, I found myself dreaming on the greatest alps walls. I lived adventures made of fun, fatigue and satisfaction, I shared them with many friends who became climbing partners as well.
In Turin I got my degree and I worked for some years as a mechanical engineer consultant but, more than that, I discovered a new way to live and look at the mountains: sometimes they became playgrounds with attractions for everyone, sometimes a shelter, where to find myself again.
Meanwhile, an idea started to grow inside me and became a dream; a dream I would never give up: working in an office as big as the alps!
Making the long story short, I applied for the mountain guide training, had a huge professional development and became a UIAGM mountain guide.
Now I’m working full-time as a mountain guide, sharing my passion with a lot of different people on the Alps, since I'm based in the Monte Rosa area, but also around the world.
Languages
Italian | English | Spanish
Matsvei
Amazing guide, amazing location!
Steven
Frans
Our Guide Massimo was very professional. We were heading to the Margharita hut at 4,559 meters but unfortunately one of us got mountain sickness at 4,100 at Piramide Vincent. Furthermore the weather was getting worse...lots of wind and snow starting. Our guide was very firm and 'advised' to go back to the Mantova hut. We were extremely lucky because a few hours later the storm was very bad and as people may have heart, 2 Italian ladies died at Primade Vincent from the cold . So Massimo thanks for your perseverance!
Vincent
Honnêtement une expérience vraiment magnifique avec un guide, Paolo, très compétant et très agréable. Malgré le vent fort lors de notre ascension nous en garderons que des bons souvenirs ! Hate de la prochaine !
Steven
Stay up-to-date on the best adventures.