Palan, an AEGM-certified guide, takes you for 1 or more days to La Pedriza, a rock climbing mecca with amazing single and multi-pitch routes in the Sierra de Guadarrama, near Madrid.
Private
Central System
+1 Days
Jan - Jun, Sep - Dec
High
Intermediate
I invite you to join me for 1 or more days of superb rock climbing in La Pedriza, near Madrid. Well known for it’s quantity and quality of granite slabs, La Pedriza is far more than the cradle of madrilenian climbing. Home to the quintessential friction climbing, the region is highlighted by many beautiful granite domes which offer the ultimate in slab climbing.
It’s a fact that sticky rubber was invented in Madrid and first tested on these rocks. This place has some of the hardest slab routes in the world, up to 8c+. Unique routes where climbing it’s not about strength, it’s about using your feet, which makes this climbing style so different compared to climbing on many other spots.
La Pedriza is so huge that it’s made up of hundreds of domes, cliffs and crags, shaped by erosion into all kind of magical forms. From granite slabs with nice run outs and tons of trad routes to bouldering and steep face climbs, La Pedriza has it all. With thousands of routes and boulders to climb, a whole life does not suffice to explore this massif. The climbing style and the surreal landscape make it a must visit area on any climber’s list.
There is a large variety of single and multi-pitch routes up to 6 pitches. You’ll find stellar routes on El Yelmo (the biggest dome that can be seen from miles away), El Pájaro (with its high concentration of three stars trad routes), La Pared de Santillana (filled with huge holds called setas -mushrooms-) or El Hueso (with its impossible 80 m flake splitting from the main face).
We offer you the chance to climb in this rock paradise, choosing between some of the most recommended routes in the area:
–El Pájaro – Sur Clásica, 190 m, 6a. First done in 1935, it’s an awesome route with a well-deserved reputation which makes it a very popular and craved must-have for any climber! The route features overwhelming cracks, chimneys, slab cruxes and panoramic views from the summit.
–El Yelmo – Hermosilla, 165 m, V. A great classic and a great introduction to harder challenges on El Yelmo. It starts with a brilliant corner on the left hand-side of a huge flake. Once we’ve topped it brilliant slabs bring us to the summit, from where you can get a view of Madrid far in the distance.
–Peña Sirio – Espolón Oeste, 190 m, V-. An excellent introduction to slab climbing with generous protection on the two cruxes and more spaced bolts on the rest. The views from the top are just amazing!
–Pared de Santillana – Sur Clásica, 115 m, 6a. A classic climb with just one peg from the beginning till the end. Surprisingly this cliff offers fun climbing and excellent protection lacing the numerous setas all around, the local name given to huge face holds, some of them which can be as big as a steering wheel.
–El Hueso – Fulgencio, 180 m, 6a. This slender bone shaped splitting from the main wall can be climbed both over and under. The Fulgencio route starts on a great bold chimney that puts us on top on the “bone”. From this point, climbing doesn’t get any better than this. Just impressive!
–El Pájaro – Este, 190 m, 6a. This route cross the East face since the late fiftees. Este had one of the hardest cruxes on its time, the so-called Pillar of Hercules, an intimidating section first done on boots.
-El Yelmo – Guirles-Campos, 130 m, 6a+. It was one of the first routes to smartly attack the blank South face of El Yelmo, which looked utterly impossible then. A master piece that traverses some of the best pitches on El Yelmo.
–El Pájaro – Oeste Clásica, 180 m, 6c. A remarkable route opened in 1965 that has it all: vertical walls, cracks, corners, traverses, slabs and a hole to reach the fourth belay. A futuristic line with a mandatory grade of V+, truly enjoyable.
–El Yelmo – Gálvez-Pascual, 150 m, 6c. One of the most outstanding Pedriza routes, due to the legendary spanish climber Jesús Gálvez. Even though the first two bolts were placed from a nearby route, the rest of the route was opened in great bold style. A route way ahead of its time that changed the limits of what was possible forever since then!
La Pedriza lies in the Sierra de Guadarrama National Park, just about an hour’s drive north from Madrid. The town of Manzanares el Real is easily accessible on public transportation. From here, crags can be reached in minutes or a few hours depending on your choice. Hiking, biking and bird watching are also very popular in the area.
This programme is an amazing opportunity to climb in one of the best, yet unknown outside of Spain, climbing venues in Europe, diving into a landscape of magical rocks, and experiencing a completely different climbing style that will challenge your balance, your feet and your mind!
Please note you need some previous climbing experience and a good fitness level to join this program.
If you find this proposal tempting, don’t hesitate to send me a request. Book your trip and let’s start planning this unique climbing trip. I will be happy to guide you on the amazing routes of La Pedriza. You could also have a look at other great climbing programs I also guide in Spain.
More info
Equipment list: climbing shoes (we can help you if there is anything that you need).
Meeting point
5.0
(20)
Mountain Guide
Born in a climbing family it was a matter of time for me to fall deeply in love with anything that had to do with rock climbing, ranging from bouldering to big walls and specially trad climbing, enjoying every single aspect of this beautiful sport that I live as a lifestyle. I began climbing at an early age with my brother in La Pedriza, a huge granite range with 4000+ routes close to our home in the nearby mountains in Madrid. Known mainly for its bold slab climbing, features world class climbs on sort of styles: cracks, overhanging walls, multi-pitch, aid... all gathered in these iconic climbing paradise.
I soon began to travel throughout Europe and the US, exploring also Morocco, Turkey or Madagascar, not only for climbing or putting up new routes, but also to experience different cultures and getting to know wonderful people all around the world.
It's been five years since I decided to turn my passion into a career. In this time I have combined working 2 years as the specialist for climbing matters in the Sierra de Guadarrama National Park with training Rock Guide aspirants at CFEM, one of the spanish certified Rock Guiding Teaching Centers. I also had time to enjoy teaching and training people at the climbing wall, learning a lot from every one of my trainees. And of course, I had time for guiding people on the most beautiful climbs, making people dreams come true and making sure the time we spend together becomes unique.
Nowadays I run a small guiding company called Compañía de Guías de la Zona Centro with my two partners Dani and Aitor, nestled at Manzanares El Real, the entrance gate to La Pedriza. From there we're happy to share all the possibilities that this region has to offer, ranging from hiking, through skiing and alpine climbing, to rock climbing and canyoning.
Languages
French | English
Certificates
AEGM
Yann
I spent a day in la Pedriza with Palan to achieve 2 big routes. Palan is really a good guide, everything come easy and natural, just like climbing with a friend and he speaks French ! He has a very good knowledge of the whole park and of climbing technics and safety. I strongly recommend this experience for everyone who likes Climbing and nature.
Younghyo
He is great mt guide. I had perfect time with him.
Katherine
Palan was an excellent guide! Great local knowledge to find routes that fit my goals and gave safe coaching while being an amazing climbing partner to spend the day with!
Moritz
We had a fantastic time with Palan! He is a really good guide: calm, knowledgeable and good teacher! Level was also spot on that we were really challenged, hence could improve without it being to much. Much looking forward to go with him again when back in Madrid!
Arnoud
Hi !! It was a great experience to do outdoor rock climbing for the first time. The guide was really nice and experienced, the location was beautiful and according to our skills and the organization upfront with the chat system worked super well! Glad to return in the future!
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