Why Climb Mont Blanc?
If we talk about iconic ascents, Mont Blanc is without a doubt one of the most iconic in the world! With its impressive 4,808 m of altitude (15,774 ft), it is the undisputed star of the French Alps. It is also the highest summit in Western Europe, which makes it an experience many climbers in the world dream of.
Climbing Mont Blanc is not a technically difficult ascent, but it does present important risks. It can be pursued by climbers with limited skill levels and experience, provided they are in company of a certified mountain guide. But of course, this doesn't mean it is an easy ascent either. On the contrary, it is an objectively dangerous one, as IFMGA-certfied guide Carlos explains.
To begin with, its altitude and the need to navigate glaciated terrain means it requires acclimatization, a good fitness level, previous climbing experience, and the assistance of an IFMGA mountain guide. However, it is rockfall that poses the most important risk.
So, while around 30,000 climbers attempt the Mont Blanc ascent each year, there are extremely important things to take into account. Here is everything you need to know to plan an unforgettable –and safe– climb. Let's get started!
1| How Difficult is Climbing Mont Blanc?
Is the Mont Blanc ascent suitable for beginners or only experienced climbers?
The answer is that while Mont Blanc isn’t technically the most difficult peak, its altitude and unpredictable weather conditions make it a serious challenge. Most routes require a good level of physical fitness, acclimatization, and familiarity with glacier travel techniques. Although many people attempt Mont Blanc, proper preparation is essential to ensure a safe and successful climb.
2| What Are the Most Popular Routes to the Summit?
The three most popular routes are the Gouter Route, the Cosmique Route, and the Italian Route. The Gouter Route is the most commonly climbed, known for its straightforward path but also for the notorious Grand Couloir, where rockfall poses a serious risk. The Cosmique Route offers a more technical challenge with a scenic climb via the Aiguille du Midi, while the Italian Route is considered more remote and less crowded, perfect for those seeking solitude and a unique climbing experience.
The Gouter Route
This is the classic and most popular route. It is also considered the fastest way to the Mont Blanc summit, once you have reached the hut. One possible kick-off point is Les Houches, from which you transfer to the Nid d’Aigle (2,372 m) via cable car and the mountain railway. Another usual starting point is Saint Gervais. The night before going for the summit is spent at the Gouter hut (3,815 m).
From the hut to the summit, the terrain is mostly glaciated and requires the use of crampons, harness and ropes. It is important to keep in mind that the ascent's main challenges are found in the segment below the Gouter hut.
After summiting, the descent can be completed via the same route, or by traversing over to the Aiguille du Midi. Yet, guide ratio restrictions apply: to descend via Aiguille du Midi, the guide ratio is 1 to 1, which means that each guide can only take one client. This is part of the reason why most groups descend via the same route they took for the ascent. Some people also choose to take the same route down in order to pass by the Gouter hut, where they usually leave extra equipment not necessary for the summit attempt.
In brief:
- About the Gouter Route: it's the classic & shortest route to Mont Blanc. It's also the least difficult route.
- Starting point: Les Houches or Saint Gervais.
- Duration of the ascent: 2 days.
The 3 Monts Route
This is a more technically demanding version of the Mont Blanc ascent, compared to the Gouter Route. This route is known as the traverse of "Les Trois Monts" –or "The Three Peaks"– because of the three peaks it touches: Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and, finally, Mont Blanc. It is objectively serious because it traverses under a lot of unstable seracs and is prone to avalanches.
The 3 Monts Route starts at Chamonix. It starts by taking the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m) cable car. For summit day, there are two options. The first and safest option, IFMGA-certified mountain guide Carlos explains, is to spend a night at the Cosmiques Hut and make a very early start (2 am), ascend to the summit, and then descend back to Chamonix in the afternoon. This allows climbers to take advantage of the overnight freeze that will have made the snow safer, considerably reducing the dangers of wet snow avalanches. This is the best practice.
A second option is to start the day very early at Chamonix, take the first cable car in the morning, climb to the summit, and then sleep at the Cosmiques Hut (3,613 m) after the ascent. This option requires a fast ascent to make the best of the morning. It is only feasible if as long as the weather is good.
The descent can be done via the Gouter Route or via the same way.
In brief:
- About the Three Monts Route: it's a more challenging and technically demanding ascent, which traverses three different peaks.
- Starting point: Chamonix-Mont-Blanc.
- Duration of the ascent: 2 days.
Read about the experience of a Explore-Share user climbing Mont Blanc via the Three Monts Route.
Other routes
There are other routes to the Mont Blanc summit, including some that start in Italy.
3| When is the Best Time to Climb Mont Blanc?
Are you thinking of climbing Mont Blanc this year? Mont Blanc ascents are most common during the European summer season. The months between June and September are the most popular ones, as long as weather conditions are good. The mountain huts on Mont Blanc are open from May to September.
However, these months also bring the most traffic, so it’s important to book your guides and refuges early. If you prefer fewer crowds, early June or late September might be the ideal window, but weather conditions can be more unpredictable outside the peak season.
Good weather conditions for the ascent, explains Carlos, include: a clear sky, cold temperatures to freeze the snow hard and no high altitude wind.
A ski mountaineering ascent of Mt Blanc is possible in the months of April and May.
Keep reading: Top 5 High Altitude Peaks for Ski Mountaineering (Mont Blanc is one of them!)
4| Do You Need a Guide to Climb Mont Blanc?
Can you climb Mont Blanc without a guide? While it’s technically possible, most climbers opt for professional guides due to the mountain’s dangers. Mont Blanc’s altitude, crevasses, and weather shifts are not to be underestimated. A certified guide will not only ensure your safety but also improve your chances of reaching the summit by optimizing your route, pacing, and equipment. They can also help with acclimatization, which is crucial to prevent altitude sickness.
Most guides accept a maximum of 2 climbers per group for the Mont Blanc ascent, if it is done via the Gouter Route. Also, sometimes the authorities allow only one client per guide. This is the case for tours that include the descent via the Aiguille du Midi (see "Routes" above for more details).
5| What Does it Cost to Climb Mont Blanc?
The costs vary depending on whether you hire a guide and rent equipment. Guided ascents typically range from €1,000 to €2,500, including accommodation in mountain refuges and group equipment like ropes. If you’re planning on renting gear, expect to pay additional fees. Booking in advance can help secure better deals, especially for guided climbs during peak season.
The main factor that influences the price of the Mont Blanc ascent programs is the number of days included. For the ascent only, the guiding fee for the 2 days will be of an average of €990.
Longer programs include acclimatization days and can cost around €1900. For example, this 5-day guided program with Peaks Hunter Mountain Guide Team.
Some of the 3-day ascents (see "Duration" below for more information), can cost around €1100 per person for a group of 2, like this Mont Blanc 3 Day Guided Ascent with IFMGA certified guide Carlos Vasquez.
Price generally includes the guiding fee alone. Some possible additional expenses are:
- Tramway fee
- Aiguille du Midi lift
- Accommodation cost at the Cosmiques hut or the Gouter hut
- Other transfers
- Equipment rentals
- Mountain guide's expenses
6| How Can You Prepare for a Mont Blanc Climb? Fitness & Technical Level Required
Are you fit enough to climb Mont Blanc? Physical preparation is key to a successful summit. Regular cardiovascular and strength training are crucial, with a focus on building endurance for long hours of hiking at altitude. Many climbers also practice specific mountaineering skills like walking with crampons, using ice axes, and managing rope systems. Training at higher altitudes in the months leading up to your climb will also help your body adapt to the lower oxygen levels.
All routes require a good acclimatization, as well as a good fitness level. One of the big challenges is altitude. On top of this, given the glaciated conditions of Mont Blanc, you will also need experience using crampons and ice axe. Due to the possibility of encountering crevasses, all guided parties will be roped.
The Mont Blanc ascent also presents significant risks of stone and rockfall as well as avalanches, for which you should also be prepared.
The most intrepid climbers should know it is possible to climb Mont Blanc via the normal route and flew off from the summit by paragliding. Known as 'paralpinism', this extreme sport combines the best of two worlds in an epic adventure.
Read about a paralpinism experience in Mont Blanc!
Take into account these 8 fundamentals and maximize your chances of a successful climb:
- A good general fitness level. Exercising on a regular basis before attempting this ascent is extremely helpful. Stay fit by running, cycling or doing other aerobic activities.
- Familiarity with the effects of altitude on your body. It is important to have a good sense of how you deal with high altitudes. Having climbed 3,000 m peaks before is a good way of assessing this.
- Mountaineering skills. It is important that you are familiar with these skills, plus know why and when they are important. The technical skills you will need for this ascent are: walking in crampons, walking roped up in a group on a glacier, using an ice axe, being aware of the dangers and risks of crevasses and rockfall.
- Acclimatization is crucial. As mentioned above, going on activities that will help you with acclimatization before the ascent is key.
- Hydration. Drink water regularly and effectively.
- Sleep. Get plenty of sleep before starting your program. Being tired can be dangerous or reduce your chances of reaching the summit. Be sure you know what to eat when you are tired but not necessarily hungry. Be prepared for this.
- Equipment. You can rent part of the equipment before initiating the ascent. Make sure it is in good condition and that it is of good quality. Check with your mountain guide to make sure.
- Expectations. Remember that weather conditions are the key piece of information you will need. Weather can make or break your chances of success. Your mountain guide can provide all the necessary information in this regard.
If you are looking to take your first steps in mountaineering and aspire to climb Mont Blanc, then this unique 4-day Beginner Mountain Climbing Adventure around Mont Blanc is the perfect option!
Learn Mountaineering Techniques while Climbing Mont Blanc
Some programs are presented as mountaineering courses. These include more thorough explanations on the technical aspects of mountaineering – typically including the use of crampons, ice axe and avalanche risk. Still, this ascent is not for beginners and can't be taken as an introduction to mountaineering. You definitely need prior experience to attempt the Mt Blanc ascent.
Have a look at this 6-day Climbing Mont Blanc with snow and ice skills program, with IFMGA certified guides from Tal Niv's team. This tour includes learning the basics of mountaineering.
Or check out this Mont Blanc + Gran Paradiso 1 week program, with guides from Peakshunter team.
7| Starting Point: Where to Travel to Climb Mont Blanc?
To start your Mont Blanc adventure, you will need to travel to the beautiful town of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, in eastern France. Chamonix is the strategic starting point for many outdoor activities around the Mont Blanc massif, from ski touring and snowshoeing in the winter season, to mountaineering and even trail-running. This beautiful alpine town is framed by the unique landscapes of this magnificent massif.
How to Get There?
- By plane: fly to Geneva International Airport, in Switzerland (88 km) and then take a bus, shuttle or taxi to Chamonix-Mont Blanc. Other close airports are Lyon (220 km) and Haute-Savoie Mont Blanc (90 km).
- By train: reach Chamonix via St. Gervais-le Fayet (France) or Martigny (Switzerland).
- By road: from France via the Autoroute Blanche (A40); from Italy via the Mont Blanc tunnel; from Switzerland via the Col des Montets.
Where to Stay in Chamonix?
If you need accommodation in Chamonix, here are some places recommended by local mountain guides:
- Hotel de L'Arve
- Chalet Ski Station
- Hotel Richemond
- Mercure Chamonix Center
- Aiguille du Midi at Les Bossons
- Heliopic
- Alpina Eclectic Hotel
8| What are the Weather Conditions in Mont Blanc?
During the climbing season –June to September (see "When to climb Mont Blanc" above)— temperatures along the Mont Blanc ascent range between 20° at Nid d’Aigle and -20° at the summit. At the top, it is usually extremely windy as well. Temperatures at the valleys along the way can vary between 15°C and 25°, and between 5° and 15° on the passes.
The ideal time for this ascent used to be August, although due to global warming this is not as clear nowadays because of the increased risk of stone fall.
As we mentioned before, according to Chamonix based mountain guide Mark Seaton, this ascent requires: clear skies, cold temperatures and a forecast of no wind. This is why "warm weather" is not necessarily desirable. For a safe ascent, freezing overnight temperatures help make the snow more compact and reduce rockfall risk.
Also, as a mountaineer it is important to learn to manage your own expectations and know that the ascent is always subject to weather conditions.
9| Equipment: What to Pack for Mont Blanc?
To climb Mont Blanc you will need to pack thoroughly. The basic items you will need are: warm waterproof jacket, mountaineering boots and crampons, harness, rope, ice axe, helmet, sunscreen, sunglasses and headlamp. Check with your guide to see which of these items are already included as group equipment. And be prepared for potentially changing weather conditions!
Most of the equipment can be provided by your guide, or rented at Chamonix, Les Houches or Saint Gervais.
IMPORTANT NOTE
Since August 17, 2017, all climbers attempting Mont Blanc through the Gouter Route are required to have a minimum level of equipment and clothing. This was issued as a municipal order by the Mayor of Saint-Gervais, Jean-Marc Peillex. Climbers who fail to comply with this regulation can be fined with €38.
Where To Rent Technical Equipment for my Mont Blanc Ascent?
In Chamonix-Mont Blanc, you can rent equipment at Snell Sports and Ravanel & Co. In Courmayeur (Italy), consider 4810 Sport Store.
10| What can I do to have a proper Acclimatization to climb Mont Blanc?
As mentioned above (see "Duration"), the Mont Blanc ascent requires good previous acclimatization. If the ascent programs –typically 2-day tours– doesn't include acclimatization, you will probably need to book it separately.
Some acclimatization options for the Mont Blanc climb include attempting other peaks in the area like:
- Aiguille d’Entreves (3,604 m)
- Gran Paradiso (4,061 m)
- Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m)
12| Which other activities can I Do Near Mont Blanc?
The area in the Alps around Mont Blanc offers countless of other activities, some of which can be great complements as acclimatization before your ascent.
From first-class alpine climbing to moderate and family-friendly via ferratas, Chamonix has it all! For those who like to explore magnificent landscapes on foot there are many hiking tours available, including the iconic Tour du Mont Blanc. If you are up for a more exhilarating activity, then you should check some of the trail running options.
Ready to take the next step? Check out all the different options for climbing Mont Blanc and book a certified guide through Explore-Share to take you on this superb mountain adventure!
We thank expert IFMGA-certified mountain guide Mark Seaton for his valuable inputs based on his 30-year experience in climbing Mt Blanc.
Read this blog post in French.
